A mattress protector is one of those purchases you want to make once and then forget about. They work quietly in the background of a busy life (and restful sleep) to keep your mattress looking its best and lasting longer, as long as they're effective.

That is why, as Sleep Editor here at Homes & Gardens, I usually don't suggest scrimping when choosing one for your sleep space. But at just $23.99, the BEDLORE Mattress Protector, available at Amazon, is making me question that rule.

It's proof that the best mattress protectors needn't be expensive, with a one hundred percent waterproof design for protecting guest beds over the holiday hosting season.

Once you've invested in one of the best mattresses, which tend to come with a sizable price tag, it's important to protect your investment with a suitable protector. With the budget-friendly BEDLORE Mattress Protector, available at Amazon, this has never been easier.

With a quilted design to keep the filling evenly lofty without slipping and sliding, and available, unusually, in eight colors, including a pretty sky blue, it's one of the highest-rated protectors I've ever come across.

For example, Samone refers to it as a 'holy grail mattress protector,' explaining that it's the 'most fantastic' protector they've ever used, 'and I've tested a lot.

'It’s super soft yet cool to the touch, makes no noise when you move around, tested and verified 100 per cent waterproof, isn’t bulky, and doesn’t melt in my dryer. It’s also convenient [that you] can get it in other colors to hide stains better over time. Planning on buying for all the beds in my house.'

Similarly, Tracy assures that it's 'the best' waterproof mattress protector they've tried. 'These mattress protectors are absolutely wonderful! We own eight of them between our main residence and vacation home, and we’ll definitely continue purchasing them as needed,' they explain. 'They have a waterproof lining underneath, but unlike so many other waterproof mattress protectors, they aren’t crinkly or crunchy at all. The top even has a light padding to it that makes them really comfortable.

'We’ve had picky sleepers who normally can’t stand waterproof mattress protectors use these with absolutely no complaints! They also wash up beautifully, which is another huge plus. Great quality, comfortable, and practical. I can’t recommend these enough!'

Speaking of cleaning and caring for this mattress protector, it couldn't be easier. It's machine-washable and dirt-resistant, as well as being suitable for the tumble dryer.

You won't need to worry about it popping off your mattress or coming loose in the night, either. With a 360° elastic skirt that's designed to fit mattresses up to 18 inches deep, it will stay put, even as you swap sleeping positions, all night long.

With the holidays just around the corner, this is the protector I'd pick up for any guest spaces. It's affordable, effective, and will last for seasons to come.

More to Shop

If you're interested in shopping for more mattress protectors and guest bedroom bedding picks, I've rounded up six more top-rated favorites below.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Invest in one of the best mattress toppers to truly elevate your guest bed ahead of the busy holiday hosting season.

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Mulching is a highly recommended fall job that benefits many plants around your garden, but not all. Whether you should mulch or not depends on the soil, conditions, and the plant.

There are many benefits to mulching in the fall. It retains residual summer or early fall heat in the soil, reduces moisture loss, and protects roots from extreme cold when the temperatures drop. Many trees, shrubs, and perennials will find this a blessing, but some plants don’t want extra moisture trapped around them.

Here we look at plants you should mulch in October – those that will thank you for the protection. Plus some plants not to mulch this month, as they struggle under a thick layer of mulch. For those plants you should mulch, use organic mulches, such as compost, chopped leaves, bark mulch, or pine straw. You can get a bag of all-natural pine bark mulch at Lowe’s that makes a perfect fall mulch.

Plants You Should Mulch in October

Perennials

At the end of the growing season, flower beds will look all the better after being thoroughly weeded and mulched. Your best perennials will have worked hard all spring and summer, growing hard and putting on a show of flowers.

A great reward for their hard work is a 2-3 inch layer of mulch in the fall to protect their roots from frost and boost the soil nutrients as it breaks down. The likes of hostas, coneflowers, daylilies, black-eyed Susans, peonies, salvias, coral bells, and more will appreciate a good mulch this month.

Mulching perennials and shrubs also prevents frost heave, where the repeated freezing and thawing lifts the crowns out of the soil. You don’t need to cut back your perennials in fall before mulching, as many are best left over winter as their seed heads and old stems provide food and habitat for wildlife.

Compost is a perfect mulch for flower beds, such as this bag of organic compost at Walmart.

Shrubs

Shallow-rooted shrubs will overwinter better with a protective layer of mulch over the soil around them. This includes azalea, hydrangea, spirea, and euonymus. Also, any shrubs planted this season need mulching, as they are not fully established and will need protection from the winter cold.

The best type of mulch for shrubs is wood chips or shredded bark, like this shredded all-natural bark at The Home Depot.

Put down a layer 2-3 inches deep, but don’t pile it too close to the plant. Wendy Hanson Mazet, a plant diagnostician for the University of Nevada, Reno Extension, warns about not leaving a gap a few inches deep around the trunk or stem.

‘When mulch is piled directly against trunks or stems, it provides both protection and easy access for rodents, which can ultimately lead to the decline or death of the plant,’ she says. The rodents affect the shrub by feeding on its bark and cambium tissue.

Strawberries

In colder climates, such as US hardiness zones 6 and below, strawberry plants require some protection from low winter temperatures. Mulching offers a simple and proven way to winterize strawberry plants successfully, as it insulates the roots from deep frosts and prevents frost heave.

When you grow strawberries, wait until the plants have gone dormant to add mulch; they lose their vibrant green color, take on a reddish tint, and start to wilt. At this stage, remove any dead or diseased foliage to prevent strawberry pests and diseases from attacking your plants.

Then add a couple of inches of straw mulch (like this garden straw sustainable mulch at Amazon) around the plants, without covering the crown, which traps excess moisture and can lead to rot.

Blueberries and currant bushes also appreciate mulching in the fall. For these fruit bushes, use wood chips.

Garlic

Fall is a time for planting garlic in vegetable gardens and raised beds. The bulbs put down roots before winter, and then start growing again in spring to give you a top garlic harvest next summer.

Garlic is a cold-hardy crop, but there are still good reasons to mulch it. Primarily, it protects the bulbs from extreme cold and stops the repeated freezing-and-thawing cycle that can cause bulbs to be pushed out of the soil and leave them vulnerable to the elements.

A good material for mulching garlic is a lightweight one, such as straw or chopped leaves, though you can use compost or homemade leaf mold. Leaves are a great free fall mulching material. Simply collect leaves from around the garden, chop them with a mower or strimmer, and spread them over the soil surface.

Plants You Should Not Mulch in October

Mediterranean Herbs

When you grow Mediterranean plants like sage, lavender, oregano, and rosemary, these classic herb garden favorites should not be mulched in the fall. These plants prefer dry, well-draining soils and dislike wet conditions.

If you mulch them this month, you’ll put the plants at risk. As Anna Fialkoff, horticulturist at the Connecticut College Arboretum, warns: ‘They can be especially prone to rot if mulched heavily since that can trap moisture and humidity.’

Mulching Mediterranean herbs encourages moisture retention around the crown and stems, which can lead to rot and fungal diseases. To avoid creating an unwanted wet environment around the herbs, put a thin layer of horticultural gravel (available at Amazon) around them rather than mulching with organic matter.

Succulents and Cacti

When you landscape with succulents and cacti, these dry-loving plants don’t want to sit in lots of moisture, especially over the colder months. Excess moisture caused by a layer of organic mulch puts them at a high risk of root rot and attracts the unwanted attention of pests.

To care for succulents in winter, hardy types like sedum, euphorbias, and sempervivum can remain outdoors in many climates, while tender ones need to be brought indoors for overwintering. Plants in borders or containers will appreciate a layer of pea stone or gravel around them to help with drainage and stop the leaves flopping into wet soil, where they can rot.

It is the same advice when growing a cactus. Mulching cacti with organic matter in the fall will trap moisture in the soil, promoting rot of both the stem and roots. Give them some pebbles or gravel around the base of the plant.

Bearded Iris

When you grow bearded irises, you must be very careful about mulching. You need to always avoid burying the rhizomes under a layer of mulch.

The rhizomes of bearded iris varieties need sun and air circulation to burst into flower next summer. They are likely to rot if mulch is put on top of them.

If you have bearded irises in your flower beds, be cautious if you usually mulch the bed and avoid piling it on top of the iris rhizomes.

Wildflowers

If you have a wildflower garden or plant a wildflower meadow, you need to cut down growth in the fall to let the plants thrive. What you don’t do is mulch the garden or meadow.

Crucial to the success of a wildflower patch is self-seeding flowers. However, a thick layer of mulch buries seeds and prevents them from getting the light they need for germination.

Also, wildflowers don’t need highly fertile soil. Adding organic mulch will increase the nutrients in the soil, and unwanted plants and weeds will take advantage of that and start to take hold.

Shop Fall Mulches

Now that you understand which plants you should mulch in October and which you shouldn’t, it might also be a good idea to learn the same about pruning. Thankfully, we’ve got you covered.

We have guides to plants to prune in October and trees and shrubs to never cut back in October to help you prune with confidence and avoid making any mistakes this fall.

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Keeping your bird bath filled up through winter is invaluable to wildlife, but keeping it ice-free is the real challenge to ensure it stays accessible. Luckily, there are so many products on the market that do the work for you.

While you can manually remove ice to stop your bird bath from freezing over in winter, the likes of heated bird baths (this gorgeous green heated bird bath from Amazon is my top choice), submersible bird bath heaters, and floating objects will do it for you. The best part is they're all perfectly safe for wildlife, so you can install them worry-free.

So, whether you've just acquired a new stylish bird bath or you're looking for ways to stop your existing one from freezing this winter, consider the below tools to keep your bird bath ice-free.

Heated Bird Bath

A heated bird bath is exactly what it sounds like: a bird bath with an integrated heater that stops the water from freezing over.

These can be a bit more pricey than a standard bird bath, but it's arguably the easiest way to stop your bird bath from freezing.

Typically, heated bird baths have a thermometer which detects when the temperature drops. It then automatically turns on to a safe heat that melts ice but isn't too warm for wildlife to use.

Bird Bath Heater

If you don't want to invest in a heated bird bath, you can turn your existing bird bath into a heated one using a bird bath heater.

This is a submersible heater that can be used in winter to warm up the water when freezing temperatures arrive, stopping ice from developing.

Many of these heaters are plug-in and have an automatic function to detect the temperature and turn on and off as needed.

They can typically be used in bird baths of a wide range of materials, including metal, plastic, stone or glass, but it is worth checking your chosen heater is compatible with your bird bath.

Floating Disk

Another way to stop bird baths from freezing over is by keeping something floating in the water. This creates movement in the water which disturbs it, breaks up any ice that is forming, and stops it from fully freezing.

There are a few DIY solutions to this, including using a rubber ball or even a rubber duck, but if you're after something that doesn't compromise on aesthetics, you can purchase specific bird bath floating disk.

Likewise, a copper bird bath disk can be used as a natural purifier, which will also prevent the build-up of grime and algae.

FAQs

Can a Solar Fountain Pump Stop a Bird Bath from Freezing Over?

While a solar fountain pump will provide movement in the water to stop it from freezing over, it isn't the most reliable tool to use. The darker days of winter may limit its ability to charge and operate, and freezing temperatures may even damage the pump.

Stopping your bird bath from freezing over is just one element of bird bath winter care. You should also clean your bird bath frequently, keep it refilled, and remove any debris (like fallen leaves). Keeping your bird bath in shape like this will help garden birds in winter by providing a fresh water source.

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Finding a unique design for your kitchen cabinets is tricky, especially if you don't want to go entirely custom. The usual designs are incredibly classic, but they don't feel unexpected or one-of-a-kind. But there's one trend that strikes the perfect balance.

Mixing playful style with enduring design, contrasting cabinet borders are the new way to make your scheme feel instantly personalized. This kitchen cabinet trend is quietly emerging as we head into 2027, and designers say it's one to watch.

A colorful or contrasting border on your kitchen cabinet doors and drawer fronts elevates your storage from simple to considered, whether you opt for tonal neutrals or a pop of playful color. Here's why designers love the trend, and how to get it right.

Unique kitchen cabinet details usually come in the form of decorative millwork, playful cabinet cutouts, and even statement hardware. But there's a growing desire for designs that feel more unexpected – something new and original that hasn't been seen before. Colorful kitchen cabinet borders fill that gap, and they do so in a way that works in modern and traditional kitchens.

'I love how this treatment brings attention to the individual details of the cabinetry. Using a second color on the inset panel emphasizes the door profile and introduces another layer of depth and interest. It’s a relatively simple way to give the millwork more character without changing the overall design,' says Maggie Vollrath of Provision Studios.

'I also think it’s a wonderful way to elevate painted cabinetry, particularly when the budget doesn’t allow for more expensive materials or finishes. A thoughtful use of color can make even relatively simple cabinetry feel much more considered and custom.'

The timing of this kitchen trend is no coincidence. Designs have shifted from sleek and white to dark and moody, but a colorful or contrasting border offers a middle ground. It also taps into a more timeless approach. A kitchen drenched in one bold color can lose its lustre after a while, but a smaller infusion, especially when paired with a neutral, feels more enduring.

'People want color, but many are still wary of committing to a fully colorful kitchen. A border is the middle ground: it brings personality while keeping the overall look light. There's a longevity argument too. Clients want kitchens that last, and because the border is painted, the color can change in a few years without replacing any of the joinery,' explains Adam Peck, Partner at 202 design.

The trend also taps into the more lived-in style many homeowners want in their cooking spaces. Many traditional kitchen features have made a comeback, from freestanding furniture and open storage styles to historic architectural details, and cabinet borders create a softer, more decorative, and slightly more personalized feel that these revived features are known for.

'I think traditional, handcrafted details are having a real resurgence. In a world where so much is mass-produced, which certainly has its place, there’s something especially appealing about the smaller details that require a more personal touch. They bring a sense of individuality to a space that can be difficult to replicate,' Maggie adds.

'I love that we’re seeing more inspiration drawn from analogue sources and a renewed appreciation for traditional millwork and decorative techniques. Cabinetry is a natural extension of that. There’s something really interesting about looking at antique furniture and the way color was used to highlight individual details, then finding ways to bring those ideas into kitchens today.'

Colorful kitchen cabinet borders are a relatively easy look to get right, but proportions are important. Narrower borders often feel more delicate and traditional, while thicker bands feel more playful and contemporary. And beyond scale, where you choose to introduce them requires careful consideration.

'One thing we were really intentional about at Willow Lane [pictured below] was keeping all of the lower cabinetry as drawers. With contrasting colors, too many different door shapes and proportions can make the design feel busy. You certainly don’t have to use all drawers, but repeating the same configurations allows the lines and contrast to flow naturally throughout the kitchen,' Maggie explains.

Perhaps the most important factor is the color combinations you use. Two really bold colors can be striking, but you also risk falling out of love with your kitchen colors quickly. For balance, designers often choose neutral cabinets with a colorful border – this adds unexpected color without entirely overwhelming the scheme.

'We designed this kitchen [pictured above] in collaboration with Sarah Peake of Studio Peake, and the brief was to bring color, fun and freshness into the room while respecting the Arts & Crafts architecture of the property,' Adam explains. 'A painted border allowed us to be playful with color in a subtle, considered way. The lower cabinets are finished in Argile Blanc de Meudon, with a Farrow & Ball Suffield Green border to each door and drawer front. The green is repeated on the tall units, the arched alcove and the window frames, which ties the kitchen into the wider scheme.'

Even though we are seeing many kitchen cabinet borders in brighter colors, it's a trend that works beautifully in a neutral scheme too. Contrast is the most important detail that makes the look work, so you can choose a light and dark neutral to create the design in a more pared-back way, as this Provision Studios project shows.

'At Willow Lane, we used two timeless Farrow & Ball colors, Bone and School House White. I loved this combination because the contrast was so subtle, almost as though we had simply moved a few shades away from our base white,' Maggie adds, explaining that the trend works best when you choose colors you truly love.

'I think that approach can work with almost any color scheme. Start with a color you love, then look for a lighter or darker shade with a complementary undertone. The colors don’t necessarily have to be in the same family, but they should feel like a natural extension of one another.'

If you're planning a kitchen refresh in 2027, this is your sign to consider colorful cabinet borders. It's a stylish way to breathe new life into your interiors without a full renovation – and 2027's biggest kitchen color trends are the perfect place to find the perfect shades to try it with.

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One of the best parts of living in New England is the abundance of beautiful coastal towns. Places like Kennebunkport, Maine; Portsmouth, New Hampshire; and Mystic, Connecticut, are packed with visitors during the summer months, and for good reason. But after spending most of my life in the area, I’ve learned that my favorite time to visit is actually in the fall, once the crowds have cleared.

In autumn, you can enjoy nearly everything that makes these seaside towns so appealing, along with a few seasonal perks. Local seafood, such as oysters and scallops, starts to reach peak season, the scenery becomes even more charming, and the days are often still warm enough for beach walks and boat trips. Best of all, there are far fewer people. You can get a table at a popular restaurant or book a great hotel room without planning months in advance.

So, when I can, I try to sneak away to one of these towns in early October. This year, my husband and I headed to Newport, Rhode Island, one of my favorite coastal destinations in New England.

Newport has a particular appeal for architecture and design lovers. Along the waterfront, well-curated boutiques mingle with old fishing shacks and restaurants housed in weather-worn clapboard buildings. A few blocks inland, cobblestone streets wind past historic homes and churches dating back to the 1700s. Along Bellevue Avenue stand the city’s famous Gilded Age mansions, a reminder of Newport’s glamorous past. There’s plenty to do no matter what time of year you visit, but here are some of my must-dos.

Where to Stay

I love a hotel that captures a sense of place. When I travel, I want to feel immersed in my surroundings, which is why I tend to gravitate toward boutique hotels. Luckily, Newport has a number of beautiful options, but this time, we stayed at Gardiner House, just a block from both the harbor and Thames Street, the city’s main shopping corridor.

The hotel feels distinctly Newport and was designed to evoke one of the city’s glamorous private residences. The guest rooms have a coastal aesthetic, but in a clean, understated way, while the public spaces feel more layered and artistic. Much of the design draws inspiration from Howard Gardiner Cushing, the Newport artist for whom the hotel is named and whose grandson owns the property. The two-story mural in the hotel’s lobby is even a recreation of the hand-painted original in Cushing’s own Newport home, The Ledges.

It’s a newer addition to Newport that’s only been open since 2024, but it’s already one of my favorites. If Gardiner House is booked, take a peek at Gilded or The Cliffside Inn, two other boutique hotels in the area that I love.

Where to Eat

Newport has no shortage of excellent restaurants, but I tend to gravitate toward the old standbys for two reasons: great food and an atmosphere that feels distinctly Newport.

One of my first stops is usually 22 Bowen’s Steakhouse and Wine Bar, right on the wharf. On this visit, my husband and I stopped for a drink at the outdoor bar and watched the sun set over the harbor, which is a magical way to start an evening. Personally, I think waterfront dining is even better in sweater weather than in the summer heat.

Next was another of my longtime favorites, Clarke Cooke House, which has been around since 1973, though its building dates back to 1780. The ceilings are low, the floors are creaky and slightly crooked, and the whole place feels very much like old New England. We snagged seats at the bar overlooking a little inlet of the harbor, which might be my favorite spot in the restaurant.

My final go-to, which we sadly didn’t get a chance to visit on this trip, is the White Horse Tavern, which dates back to 1673 and is considered one of the oldest operating restaurants in the world. Stepping inside feels almost like traveling back in time, with its colonial architecture, exposed beams, small rooms, and enormous fireplaces. It’s the perfect place to spend a chilly evening.

One newer spot deserves a mention, too: Flora, inside Gardiner House, where we stayed. It’s one of the most beautifully designed restaurants I’ve been to in a long time, and the breakfast we had there was just as good as the interiors. During the summer, getting a table at any of these spots requires planning well in advance. But that’s just another reason to plan your visit in the fall.

Where to Browse

Shopping in Newport is a must, especially if you love decorating with antiques as much as I do. There are plenty of great clothing boutiques along Thames Street, the main shopping drag, but I usually find myself wandering into antique shops, home stores, and anywhere I might stumble across a one-of-a-kind find.

A few favorites include Cottage & Garden, a beautifully curated little shop that mixes antique furniture and accessories with garden finds like topiaries, terracotta pots, and marble urns.

I also love Drawing Room Antiques on Spring Street (another excellent shopping street overall), which specializes in finer antiques. It’s worth visiting just to admire the collection, especially because the shop is apparently haunted. I’ve never experienced anything out of the ordinary, but the shop’s owners swear that the items’ former owners occasionally come back for a visit.

For a bargain or a small piece of art or decor, I also like to stop by Antique Boutique, also on Spring Street.

My absolute favorite, though, is Aardvark Antiques on the outskirts of town. It’s part antique store, part architectural salvage yard, and unlike almost anywhere else I’ve shopped. The collection includes everything from old iron gates and marble mantels to enormous sculptures, art, mirrors, and furniture. It’s not necessarily the place to pick up something small that you can pack into your suitcase for the trip home, but if you’re renovating a house or looking for actual furniture pieces, it’s definitely worth a stop.

What to Do

Beyond the waterfront, beaches, and shopping, Newport’s biggest attraction is its collection of Gilded Age mansions. In the late 1800s, the city was the summer destination for some of America’s wealthiest families, including the Vanderbilts and Astors, who built enormous estates along the coast.

Many of these former private residences are now maintained by the local preservation society and are open for public tours. I’ve been visiting them since I was a kid, and I still find them just as fascinating.

The grandest of the mansions is The Breakers, built for Cornelius Vanderbilt II in the 1890s. At 125,000 square feet, it’s closer in size to a shopping mall than a summer house, with interiors that are almost impossibly ornate. It’s absolutely worth seeing, especially if it’s your first visit.

My personal favorites, though, are nearby Rosecliff and Marble House. Rosecliff has a stunning heart-shaped staircase and an enormous ballroom that you might recognize from the 1970s version of The Great Gatsby, while Marble House is exactly what its name suggests: an extravagant, marble-filled mansion built by William Vanderbilt as a birthday gift for his wife.

If you have time for one more thing, take a walk along the Cliff Walk. The path runs between the ocean and the backyards of many of Newport’s mansions, both public and private, so it’s a great way to take in everything the city has to offer all at once.

Shop Newport-Inspired Picks

Every time I visit Newport, I find another reason to love it, whether it’s a shop I haven’t discovered before or a new detail in a historic house I’ve walked past a dozen times. And while it’s beautiful any time of year, there’s something about having the city a little more to yourself in the fall that makes it even better.

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Peace lilies are loved for their glossy green leaves and elegant white blooms, but as fall arrives, you'll need to adjust their care routine.

October is an important month for peace lily care, particularly in the US, where cooler temperatures and shorter days can affect how well your plant grows. If yours has spent the summer outdoors, now is the time to bring it inside before chilly nights set in.

I have the Peace Lily Plant from Trees.com in my own home, and a few simple changes to watering, light, and positioning can make all the difference as the seasons change.

With a little extra attention now, you can help your peace lily stay healthy and keep its beautiful foliage looking its best throughout winter.

1. Adjust Your Watering Routine

One of the most important parts of peace lily care in October is adjusting your watering routine. As daylight hours decrease and growth slows, your plant will need less water than it did during summer.

Knowing when to water a peace lily is key. Check the top inch of potting mix with your finger and water when it feels dry, keeping the soil lightly moist without leaving the roots sitting in water. A watering can with a narrow spout, such as the Fiskars 40oz Indoor Watering Can, available on Amazon, makes it easier to direct water into the soil rather than onto the foliage.

Use room-temperature water and let any excess drain away, emptying the saucer afterward to help prevent root rot. If you notice brown leaf tips, your tap water could be a factor, as peace lilies can be sensitive to fluoride. Try filtered water or collected rainwater instead, and consider an XLUX Soil Moisture Meter from Amazon if you're unsure when your plant needs a drink.

The key is to check the soil rather than stick to a rigid watering schedule, as your peace lily's needs will change as the weather cools.

2. Move It to a Brighter Spot Before the Days Get Shorter

Peace lilies can tolerate lower light levels, making them a popular choice for living rooms, bedrooms, and offices. However, as fall brings shorter days, they may need a brighter spot to keep their foliage healthy and encourage flowering.

Knowing where to place a peace lily can make all the difference. An east-facing window is often ideal, offering gentle morning sunlight, while a bright spot near a north-facing window can also work. Avoid harsh, direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves, and keep your plant away from cold window glass as temperatures drop.

If your peace lily is tucked into a dim corner, consider raising it on this decorative Wood Plant Stand Side Table from the Magnolia collection at Target to bring it closer to a window and make it a feature in your space. If natural light is limited, a full-spectrum LED grow light from Amazon can provide extra support through the darker months.

3. Bring Outdoor Peace Lilies Inside Before Temperatures Drop Too Far

If your peace lily has spent the summer on a shaded patio or porch, October is the time to check the forecast and plan to bring it indoors. These tropical plants prefer warm conditions and can suffer when temperatures fall below 60°F, so it's best to move yours inside before chilly nights arrive rather than waiting for the first frost.

Knowing the places to never grow a peace lily is just as important as finding the right spot. Avoid positioning yours beside drafty exterior doors, cold windows, fireplaces, or heating vents, where sudden temperature changes and dry air can stress the plant.

Before bringing it indoors, check the leaves and stems for pests, inspect the potting mix, and remove any dead or damaged foliage. Once inside, choose a warm spot with bright, indirect light and keep the plant away from cold drafts.

If you need to move your peace lily away from a chilly windowsill, a rolling plant caddy from Home Depot makes it easier to reposition a heavier pot as the seasons change. You could also use an indoor plant stand from Lowe's to elevate it in a warmer part of the room, away from direct heat.

4. Keep It Away From Heating Vents and Cold Drafts

As temperatures drop in fall, turning on the heat can make your home more comfortable, but the warm, dry air isn't always ideal for tropical houseplants. Peace lilies prefer consistent warmth, so keep yours away from heating vents, fireplaces, drafty windows, and exterior doors. Sudden temperature changes can stress the plant, leading to wilting, yellow leaves, or brown tips.

Aim to keep your peace lily in a comfortably warm room, ideally around 65–80°F, and avoid spots where temperatures fluctuate throughout the day. Indoor heating can also lower humidity, which peace lilies appreciate, so consider using a Canopy humidifier from Amazon to add moisture to the air, particularly if your home feels dry.

You can also group your peace lily with other houseplants to help create a more humid microclimate. A bathroom can be another good option, provided it gets enough indirect natural light. For more inspiration, we've rounded up the best bathroom plants that thrive in these naturally humid conditions.

5. Clean the Leaves and Ease Back on Fertilizer

October is a good time to give your peace lily a little TLC before winter. Gently wipe its broad leaves with a damp cloth to remove dust, check for pests, and trim away any dead or damaged foliage with clean scissors.

It's also time to ease back on feeding as growth slows. If you're wondering how to fertilize a peace lily, use a gentle feed, such as TPS Plant Foods Peace Lily Fertilizer, following the label instructions. You can also find Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food at Walmart. Avoid overfeeding, and pause fertilizing over winter if growth slows.

Finally, hold off on repotting until spring unless there's a problem with the roots or drainage. A little maintenance now will help your peace lily stay healthy until the growing season returns.

Peace lilies don't need much fuss to get through fall and winter. A few simple adjustments to watering, light, and positioning in October can help keep their foliage healthy as temperatures drop and daylight fades. Give your plant the right conditions now, and it will be well placed to thrive until brighter days return in spring.

Fragrant evergreens bring two valuable qualities to the garden: year-round greenery and beautiful scent. From perfumed flowers to aromatic foliage, these versatile shrubs add sensory interest to garden borders, hedges and containers, keeping outdoor spaces engaging even through the colder, darker months.

Fall is an excellent time to plant many hardy evergreen shrubs, giving their roots time to establish while the soil is still warm and seasonal rainfall helps keep the ground moist. While yew, camellias and arborvitae are popular choices for evergreen structure, there are also varieties that offer the added pleasure of fragrance – making them as beautiful to smell as they are to look at.

When thinking about how to plan a fragrant garden, these five scented evergreens are well worth considering for a backyard that delights the senses in every season. (And if you're heading out to plant this weekend, I highly recommend this Berry & Bird spade, available from Amazon.)

1. Daphne

Landscaping with evergreens can help to soften boundaries, guarantee privacy and also provide habitat for local wildlife.

Daphnes are prized for their intensely fragrant flowers, making them a beautiful addition to an evergreen border.

Native to parts of Asia, Europe and North Africa, the genus includes more than 50 species, with many evergreen varieties producing clusters of four-petalled blooms. Alongside their heady scent, these shrubs bring structure and year-round greenery to garden borders.

'Daphne is one of the best fragrant evergreens, helping to create a colorful but calm space wherever they are planted,' says Mike Murphy, garden expert and owner of You Had Me At Gardening.

'While it will vary on the exact variety, most can be grown from USDA hardiness zone 4 and up, although in cooler zones, you might experience some leaf drop depending on the winter weather.'

For the best results, choose a sheltered spot with well-drained soil, as daphnes can be particular about their growing conditions. 'Daphnes do best in a sheltered, sunny spot in the garden border,' Mike adds. 'Be warned that these shrubs are slow growing, though, often only producing a few inches of growth per season to eventually reach their mature size, usually around 3 or 4 feet tall. For this reason, it is best to purchase as large a plant as you can afford.'

For a compact evergreen with variegated foliage and wonderfully perfumed pink flowers, consider Daphne 'Perfume Princess', from Trees.com.

2. Osmanthus

Osmanthus shrubs, also known as tea olive, are prized for their wonderfully fragrant flowers, glossy evergreen foliage and ability to bring year-round structure to garden borders.

Native to Asia, these versatile shrubs range from compact hedging plants to substantial evergreen specimens, with some varieties producing a powerful, sweet fragrance that can perfume the garden from late summer into fall.

As a former professional gardener, I have grown both Osmanthus fragrans and Osmanthus × burkwoodii, and can highly recommend them for adding scent and structure to an outdoor space. O. fragrans is particularly renowned for its intensely fragrant flowers, while O. × burkwoodii offers small, glossy leaves and clusters of sweetly scented white blooms in spring.

You can find Osmanthus starter plants available at Walmart.

Depending on the species, osmanthus can be grown across USDA hardiness zones 5–10, although O. fragrans generally prefers warmer conditions, typically zones 8–11. Many varieties have attractive, holly-like leaves with toothed edges, and some can eventually reach 10–20 feet tall. Growth is generally slow to moderate, making these shrubs relatively easy to manage with occasional pruning to maintain their shape and size.

For a more formal look, Osmanthus can also be trained into a small multi-stem tree or clipped into an elegant topiary form in a suitable container. This makes it a lovely choice for a modern cottage garden, where sculptural evergreen foliage, delicate flowers and beautiful fragrance can work together to create a space that feels both polished and natural.

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3. Portuguese Laurel

Portuguese laurel (Prunus lusitanica) is a handsome evergreen shrub that combines glossy foliage with clusters of fragrant white flowers in late spring and summer. Often grown as a privacy hedge, it offers more than year-round screening: plant it near a pathway, patio or entrance and its delicate blooms can add a welcome touch of fragrance as you pass.

Native to the Iberian Peninsula and parts of southwestern Europe, Portuguese laurel is valued for its rich green leaves, reddish stems and ability to form a dense, attractive screen.

It generally grows best in USDA hardiness zones 6–9, depending on local conditions, and adapts to a range of well-drained soils. Once established, it can tolerate some shade and periods of dry weather, making it a useful option for garden areas where other shrubs may struggle making it a low-maintenance hedge plant.

As a former professional gardener, I particularly like Portuguese laurel for its foliage, which I find more refined than that of the commonly grown cherry laurel. It is also relatively easy to maintain: an annual trim after flowering can help keep a hedge neat, although more frequent pruning may be needed if you want a particularly formal shape.

If you're looking to add evergreen structure and seasonal fragrance to your garden, Portuguese laurel is well worth considering. Just be sure to check the plant's identity when buying online.

4. Myrtle

Common myrtle (Myrtus communis) is one of the prettiest evergreen trees that brings year-round foliage and a wonderfully aromatic quality to the garden. Native to the Mediterranean, it is particularly admired for its sweetly scented summer flowers, each with a striking cluster of long, curling stamens that give the blooms a delicate, almost fluffy appearance. The glossy leaves are fragrant, too, releasing their fresh scent when brushed or crushed.

Accustomed to the warm, sunny conditions of its native range, common myrtle grows best in a sheltered position with plenty of sunlight and moist but well-drained soil. It is generally suited to USDA hardiness zones 8–10, although protection from cold winds and hard freezes can help it thrive at the cooler end of its range. In colder regions, growing myrtle in a container allows you to move it to a protected spot during winter.

Common myrtle can be kept as a compact, shapely shrub with occasional pruning, making it a lovely choice for a sunny patio, courtyard or container display. A good starter option is this compact myrtle tree, available from Amazon.

5. Artemisia

For an evergreen shrub with a difference, some shrubby artemisias offer aromatic foliage in beautiful shades of silver and gray-green. Their finely textured leaves bring contrast to garden borders, pairing particularly well with ornamental grasses and flowering perennials.

While many artemisia species lose their foliage or die back in winter, certain shrubby varieties can retain much of their silvery growth in milder climates, especially when planted in a sunny, sheltered position. It's one of my favorite plants with silver foliage.

Growing conditions and mature size vary by species, but some shrubby artemisias can reach around four to five feet tall. Most appreciate plenty of sunlight and well-drained soil, and their drought tolerance makes them useful in gardens that experience hot, dry summers. In colder regions, foliage may die back during winter, so check the hardiness of your chosen variety before planting.

It's important to choose artemisia carefully, as not every species is suitable for every garden. Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris), for example, can spread aggressively and is considered invasive plants in parts of the US.

For a more ornamental option, consider southernwood (Artemisia abrotanum), a fragrant, finely textured shrub with soft gray-green foliage. Alternatively, Artemisia 'Powis Castle' is valued for its feathery silver foliage and rounded habit, although its winter performance depends on local conditions.

This 'silver lining' variety from Plant Addicts is a hybrid between two North American species Artemisia stelleriana and Artemisia ludoviciana, and it is also deer resistant.

If you are looking for native plants that are fragrant evergreens, juniper is an interesting option. With scented needles, juniper can add an aromatic touch to your borders, and is beautiful in holiday wreaths.

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Bathrooms are often overlooked, but the design and decor go far beyond function. They should feel warm, layered, and like a room you actually want to spend time in – and 2027's most coveted bathroom trends will help you meet every one of those criteria.

This year's trending features aren't about completely reconfiguring your bathroom ideas, but adding personality and a more lived-in feel. The biggest takeaway? Treating them more like rooms than functional zones. From furniture and decor to the designs that make these rooms sing, designers say these are the bathroom trends you need to know for 2027, and how they can make a difference in your own space.

1. Bathrooms That Feel Like Actual Rooms

A bathroom might be a functional room, but according to this year's trends, it shouldn't feel like one. We spend a lot of time in these spaces, so creating a design that feels warm, inviting, and more in line with the cozier rooms of the home is key. And it's an approach designers say we should all be taking into 2027.

'Bathrooms are going to continue feeling less like purely functional spaces and more like extensions of the home. We love bringing in elements you wouldn't traditionally expect to see in a bathroom, whether that's an antique stool, a beautiful piece of art, decorative lighting, or even a vintage rug,' says Kailee Blalock, Co-Founder of House of Hive Design Co.

This ethos is emerging in kitchen trends, too, as a way to transform functional rooms into cozier, more lived-in spaces, so it's no surprise it's continuing into bathroom designs. 'There's something so special about a bathroom that feels collected and lived-in rather than overly sterile. We want these spaces to have just as much personality as a living room or bedroom, while still functioning beautifully.'

2. More Adventurous Material Combinations

Minimalist bathrooms are out in 2027. There's less desire for sleek, plain schemes – homeowners want something fun and interesting, and as decorating confidence grows, expect to see more playful tile designs and material combinations that bring unrivaled personality to these rooms.

'We would love to see people become a little less concerned with everything matching perfectly. Some of our favorite bathrooms combine multiple tile shapes, scales, textures, and finishes, and that's often what makes them interesting. We love pairing something small and glossy with a large, dramatic slab of stone, or introducing a darker, unexpected material into an otherwise light space,' says Kailee.

'In our La Costa bathroom, we paired espresso-colored pill tiles with natural stone, and that contrast brought so much depth to the room. We think we'll continue seeing more intricate tilework, interesting layouts, and combinations that feel a little less predictable. The trick is making sure there's still a common thread connecting everything.'

3. Design-Forward Plumbing and Decorative Hardware

It's time to stop overlooking your plumbing and hardware. Seemingly small, practical details are often treated as box-ticking exercises, but 2027 trends will place greater emphasis on incorporating these elements into the overall design. Think of it as making the functional details part of the decor.

'We think people are going to start paying much more attention to the smaller details, especially plumbing fixtures and hardware. We're personally drawn to pieces that feel a little more traditional or unusual, whether that's a beautiful cross-handle faucet, an ornate wall-mounted fixture, decorative backplates, or hardware with an antique influence,' Kailee explains.

'We also love mixing metals when it's done intentionally. Polished nickel alongside aged brass, for example, can feel so much more collected than having every single finish match. These details are almost like jewelry for a bathroom, and we think they deserve just as much consideration as the tile or stone. It's those little choices that can really set a space apart.'

4. A More Personalized Take on Tile Installations

It's not just bathroom tile designs that are getting more adventurous, but the way they are installed, too. Even the simplest tiles can become a unique focal point when interesting patterns and layouts are chosen – and it's a look you'll be seeing much more of in 2027, from traditional European patterns to gingham tile layouts.

'I’m seeing a shift toward more thoughtful, intricate tile patterns created using classic, timeless materials. Rather than relying on ready-made designs, we’re seeing traditional tiles used in varying sizes, colors, and configurations to create something truly unique and personal. There’s a growing appreciation for the artistry and intention behind these one-of-a-kind details, rather than something purchased off the shelf,' says Alexandra Azat of Plaster & Patina.

And she's not the only one noticing a shift in tile designs. 'Our clients are continuing to add texture and drama to their bathrooms through beautiful tile installations,' adds interior designer Stephanie Kraus. 'We’re treating shower walls and floors as a canvas. Long, slender tile, a chair rail, and framed panels that mimic millwork – the effect is so elegant.'

5. Clear Shower Screens Replaced By Elevated Curtains

A glass enclosure around a walk-in shower still feels incredibly chic, but when it comes to showers over baths, the clear screens are starting to feel a little bit clinical. Glass, porcelain, and tile with no reprieve lean slightly sterile. Instead, designers are gravitating back towards shower curtains, specifically designs made from linen and cotton for a high-quality finish.

'The typical clear glass shower door is feeling pretty stale these days, even with the long-overdue advent of designer handles. Instead, I've been foregoing doors altogether (I promise, you won't be cold!) or adding naturally anti-microbial 100% linen curtains to my showers,' says interior designer Bethany Adams, emphasizing the warmth they bring. 'If you're building a new, open shower, do yourself a favor and run your heated floors right into it. Not only will it add to the coziness, but your tile will dry in an instant, meaning no mold or mildew.'

6. Warmer, Moodier Bathroom Colors

Let's talk about bathroom colors. White has long been the favored color, creating a clean, open feel, but it can also feel very cold and uninviting – the opposite atmosphere we should be giving these spaces. In 2027, designers are shifting to warmer, moodier schemes that create a bathroom filled with warmth and character.

'The days of the completely white, spa-inspired bathroom being the default are behind us. We're loving deeper, earthier colors like tobacco brown, oxblood, olive, terracotta, and really beautiful warm neutrals. There's something incredibly luxurious about a bathroom that feels a little moody and enveloping,' Kailee explains.

There's a misconception that moody or rich equals dark. But even small infusions of these more evolved palettes will instantly transform a bathroom. 'That doesn't necessarily mean painting every surface a dark color, either,' she adds. 'Sometimes it's as simple as incorporating a rich chocolate tile, a beautifully colored stone, or an unexpected sink.'

7. The Reimagined Spa Bathroom

Spa bathrooms are always on trend, but the way they are being designed is very different for 2027. The color and material palette is less restrained – the whites and light woods of past trends are being replaced by earthier designs. It's more about natural references than a specific aesthetic.

'If I could sum it up in almost one word, I would say the 2027 bathroom trend is spa-inspired organic. We will see a departure from traditional white tile and open, minimalist spaces, adapting toward a more earth-tone color palette with noble, terrestrial materials like wood, marble, and even natural fiber wall coverings. The idea is to create sensory wellness with tactile surfaces, visual interest, and layered lighting,' explains Ania Agárdy of Luxury Living.

'You will see large slabs with lots of veining acting as accent walls or in areas like wet rooms where you have both the tub and the shower in the same space. You will notice more use of integrated sinks in the slab, creating a seamless look and feel. Sconces have always been my go-to for creating direct lighting, but you will see them used more as statement pieces for visual impact.'

8. Furniture-Style Vanities

A bathroom vanity offers a unique opportunity to bring an unexpected feature to your space, whether it's a new material, intricate details, or a unique silhouette. And as we head into a new year, all the trends are pointing towards furniture-inspired designs.

'Furniture-style vanities bring a more individual, less utilitarian feel to bathrooms. Whether traditional furniture or contemporary, painted timber cabinetry, these pieces add texture and a sense of permanence. There’s a growing appetite for interiors that feel collected and personal, rather than overly uniform,' explains John Law, Creative Director of Interiors at Woodhouse & Law.

'We're really excited to see bathroom vanities become more decorative and less like standard cabinetry,' Kailee agrees. 'We love incorporating antique-inspired silhouettes, beautiful wood grains, decorative feet, intricate millwork, and unexpected hardware. A vanity takes up so much visual space in a bathroom, so why not make it something really special? We want vanities to feel like pieces of furniture that were thoughtfully selected for the space, not just cabinets that happen to hold a sink.'

9. Sinks as Sculptural Focal Points

Staying with the vanity area, this next trend focuses on bathroom sinks. Instead of standard porcelain designs and basins hidden away, the new focus is on statement sinks, whether it's a colorful design or an unexpected material.

'We think sinks are going to become much more of a design moment. There are so many incredible options beyond the traditional white undermount sink, and we're excited to see people embrace them. Carved marble basins, terracotta sinks, unusual shapes, and more sculptural forms can completely transform a bathroom,' Kailee notes.

'We incorporated terracotta sinks into our La Costa project, and we love the handcrafted quality they bring to the space. A sink is something you interact with every single day, so we think it's worth making it beautiful. Sometimes one really special fixture can do more for a room than adding a dozen decorative details.'

10. A Focus On Traditional Details

A lot of the more modern styles lack that lived-in appeal that makes bathrooms feel like rooms you want to spend time in, rather than a functional space. It's why the biggest shift in this year's trends is toward more traditional features, whether it's cabinet styles or custom details.

'I’m seeing a return to classic Shaker-style cabinetry, but with more unexpected, nuanced color choices,' says Alexandra. 'It’s really about taking familiar, enduring design elements and reinterpreting them in ways that feel fresh, individual, and full of character.'

For Austin Carrier and Alex Mutter-Rottmayer of Hommeboys, 2027 bathroom trends are pointing back to traditional design, like 'unique, custom tile work with hand-painted or printed detailing, using natural materials in innovative ways, and embracing patina and wear.'

'There's a deepening of the return to more traditional details and enduring, layered design,' they continue. 'Custom pieces that have a handmade quality feel more authentic and intimate and are lovely to live with. Natural materials that patina beautifully over time provide a value that lasts and is less wasteful.'

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Japanese maples (acer) are some of the most beautiful trees for fall, with their fiery colors becoming more vibrant as the weather cools. But, in the midst of enjoying their seasonal display, don't forget to give them some essential care.

While Japanese maple care is fairly low maintenance once the trees are established, fall calls for a few tasks to be ticked off. You should focus on pruning damaged branches and protecting Japanese maples in winter by putting down some mulch and installing a tree guard (like this from Amazon) now.

To make sure your acers are ready for the coldest season ahead, I asked an arborist what to do with Japanese maples in October. Here's what they said to prioritize before the end of the month.

1. Remove Damaged Branches

While the best time to prune Japanese maples is often considered between late fall and mid-winter, you can give them a tidy up in October.

'Remove dead, diseased, or broken branches so problems are less likely to spread into healthy parts of the tree,' says Fred Breglia, certified arborist.

'Japanese maples can release sap from fresh cuts when pruned at the wrong time. That's why you should avoid major pruning during extreme summer heat or in late summer and early fall, because it may encourage tender new growth that is vulnerable to winter injury,' says Fred.

Use sharp pruning tools to make essential cuts only. 'I recommend sharp bypass pruners (like these Fiskars ones from Amazon) or loppers for small and medium-size branches. Choose a pruning saw (like this from Lowe's) for larger limbs,' Fred suggests.

2. Mulch Your Japanese Maple

Mulching in summer can help regulate soil temperature and keep roots hydrated, while mulching in fall is used to insulate roots and protect plants from frost. For younger acers in particular, this can help keep them safe through winter.

'Add organic mulch, such as shredded bark or wood chips, or replenish the existing layer around your Japanese maples. A 2-4-inch layer helps protect shallow roots from early freezes,' Fred says. 'Take care to keep mulch away from the trunk, however. This could risk decay and pest problems,' he adds.

This will also keep Japanese maples hydrated through cold, dry winter weather.

For potted Japanese maples, it's a good idea to also wrap the container for extra insulation as roots are more exposed. You can use burlap (like this from Amazon) or even move your Japanese maple to a sheltered position.

3. Protect from Winter Sunscald

Sunscald is another thing to protect trees from in winter. It's caused by the warm winter sun waking up dormant cells in tree trunks which are then damaged by freezing temperatures. Now is a good time to put precautions in place to protect your acers from this.

'Winter sunscald can split bark, particularly on young trees with smooth, thin bark. Damage often appears on the southwest side as sunken, dry, cracked, or dead tissue,' Fred describes.

'You can reduce sunscald risk with a ventilated tree wrap (like this from Walmart) or breathable protective material in fall. It should fit the trunk while allowing airflow and avoiding trapped moisture,' Fred advises.

You can also use a tree guard to protect your acer from animal damage in winter, particularly deer, rabbits, and rodents which browse woody plants when other food sources are scarce.

Mesh tree guards (like this from Amazon) are a good choice, creating a breathable barrier to stop winter wildlife getting to the bark.

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Don't forget to also approach watering trees in fall and winter correctly. In particular, you should take care to avoid waterlogging your Japanese maple's soil and reduce watering as its leaves fall. A soil moisture meter (like this from Amazon) can help you monitor this.

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You aren’t always blessed with a lot of notice to be able to prepare a garden for severe weather. Thankfully, many important tasks can be done quickly to secure a garden before a storm.

The best way to prepare your yard for a storm is securing anything loose that can blow around, keeping buildings safe, and protecting any vulnerable plants. Taking a few simple steps can ensure a garden remains safe when strong winds and heavy rain are due.

Here are some quick, simple ways to secure a garden before a storm. A few precautions before extreme weather can reduce the risk of damage, and it starts with looking around the garden and assessing where the potential dangers lie. A large outdoor storage box like one on Amazon can secure small, loose items from around the garden and keep them from being blown around.

1. Move Pots

Containers can easily be knocked over and damaged when a storm hits. This is especially the case for lightweight plastic containers, which get blown around, and taller planters that are at high risk of toppling in strong winds.

Smaller pots should be moved indoors, into a greenhouse, garage, shed, or porch, for protection. Larger pots can be grouped together against a wall to shelter them from strong winds and reduce the risk of them tipping. Hanging baskets should be taken down and put on the ground to prevent them becoming a flying hazard.

A plant caddy with wheels, like this one on Amazon, can be a sound investment to help you move larger pots around the garden.

2. Secure Loose Items

A key part of securing a garden before a storm is putting away any loose items that cannot be fixed down and risk flying around the yard. Scour the garden to spot anything that could become a hazard during a storm and store it away somewhere safe.

This includes ornaments, garden rugs, cushions, garden tools, parasols, children’s toys, and lightweight garden furniture. Storing these away stops them from being blown around during a storm and posing a danger to people or buildings.

These items can be stored in a shed, garage, inside the home, or in a garden storage box (like this deck box on Wayfair).

Where possible, also put heavier garden furniture away or firmly attach it to a secure point with strong ropes. Outdoor lighting should also be taken down to prevent it from becoming airborne in strong winds and potentially shattering against walls, fences, or the ground.

3. Shut Greenhouses and Sheds

Ahead of an incoming storm, check your greenhouse to make sure that all doors and windows are secured ahead of high winds. Any open doors or latches allow the gales into the greenhouse and put extra pressure on the structural frame.

It is also worth checking if any panes are loose and securing them with replacement clips or heavy-duty tape to stop them lifting during the storm. Any loose panes could be lifted by the winds and become a major hazard.

Also, lock any garden shed doors to stop them swinging open during storms. If your shed door doesn’t have a lock, instead prop it shut with bricks or timber. Any windows also need to be shut and any loose roofing felt secured back down to prevent it from being ripped off by winds.

4. Stake Tall Plants

There are different ways to protect plants from a storm, depending on where they are growing.

While you can easily move container plants, there are going to be taller plants around the garden that you cannot quickly shift to a new home before a storm hits. When it comes to tall plants in flower beds, focus on staking them to prevent them from snapping in strong winds.

Plants that need staking can be supported with basic bamboo canes (you can get a pack of five-foot bamboo stakes at The Home Depot), wooden stakes, or metal poles. Either individual stems can be attached, or you can wrap multiple stems with string or hessian for multi-stemmed perennials.

Use soft, flexible plant ties so they allow some movement and place ties every 8-12 inches up the stem for total support. Such as these VELCRO plant ties at Walmart.

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It always pays to be proactive when protecting your property. This includes inspecting trees before winter to identify any broken branches or other issues that could cause limbs to drop during storms. Identifying and dealing with any potential hazards is vital for trees hanging over homes, gardens, driveways, and pedestrian walkways.

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With the start of November now just over a week away, I'm beginning to feel ready to transition my home from Halloween to the holidays. Christmas in my home begins on November 1st and, while the tree won't be up until December, my home scenting transitions overnight.

I've tried a wealth of seasonal candles, with notes of spiced orange, fir, and gingerbread, but something that I feel truly captures the holiday spirit is the fresh, peppermint scent of candy canes. This is the inspiration behind IKEA's new VINTERFINT Candle − and it costs just $4.99.

The affordable price, sweet seasonal scent, and nostalgic, playful design make it one of the very best candles to wrap as a stocking stuffer or light in the run-up to the big day.

There are several Christmas candles I return to each November − Diptyque's Sapin, NEOM's Christmas Wish, and Skandinavisk's Fjord, available at Amazon, to name a few. But while a real treat, my yearly rotation is certainly not affordable. Fortunately, IKEA's VINTERFINT Candle is.

With the iconic scent of a sweet and minty scent of candy cane, it's undoubtedly an essential to make your home smell like Christmas. The 20-hour burn time means it will last through plenty of festive days and evenings spent on the couch or hosting friends and family, and for just $4.99, I'd suggest buying a few to place in each room to make your entire home smell nice.

The playful design will look at home among any Christmas mantel decor ideas or maximalist Christmas table decor, particularly if you prefer the classic colors of traditional Christmas decor, with a modernized twist.

I'd pair mine with a similar reed diffuser, like this Wild Mint & Eucalyptus Reed Diffuser, available at Amazon, to boost the scent throw. Alternatively, use peppermint oil, available at Walmart, in one of the best essential oil diffusers to fill your home with fragrance, without the worry of flames. My favorite is the NEOM Wellbeing Pod Luxe, but if you're on a budget, the InnoGear Ceramic Essential Oil Diffuser, available at Amazon, has the same look for less.

In any case, I'm ordering a handful of IKEA's VINTERFINT Candles for myself, and an additional few for gifting to friends and family this Christmas − they make the perfect stocking stuffers. And once the candle is used up, you can reuse the candle jar (after getting the wax out) for seasons to come.

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For home shipping, your IKEA basket must be over $35. I've rounded up some more festive favorites to add in, along with alternative recommendations for burning and gifting this season.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

Get organized ahead of time with our new year home fragrance edit.

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For years, when people asked me to describe my design style, I would say 'warm modern.' It was accurate, but eventually I realized it wasn't really saying enough. It told you what my rooms looked like. It didn't tell you how I wanted you to feel when you walked into one.

And feeling is a very big part of how I design. I love minimalism.

I love clean lines, breathing room, thoughtful proportions, and the confidence of not putting something on a wall simply because there is a wall. But I don't want to live in a home where you're afraid to put down your coffee cup. And I certainly don't want my clients to. Somewhere between those two ideas, 'Soulful Minimalism' was born.

The 'minimalism' is really about intention. I want everything in a room to have a reason for being there. Furniture should be properly scaled so the room can breathe. Art should have enough space around it to be appreciated. Materials, lighting, furniture, and accessories should complement one another rather than all shouting, 'Look at me!' at the same time. My rooms are layered, but they're edited. There are places for your eye to stop and places for it to rest.

Then comes the 'soulful' part – and that's the person who lives there. A beautifully designed home should tell me something about you. I want to know what you collect, where you've traveled, how you entertain, what you do on Sunday mornings, and where your children actually drop their backpacks. And if you have a dog, let's be realistic: the dog is probably going to have some opinions about the furniture too.

I've always believed a home should look thoughtfully designed, not like someone simply went shopping. That distinction is important. You can fill a room with expensive things and still have it feel completely impersonal. Soul doesn't come with a price tag. It comes from making choices that reflect the people living there.

Over time, I realized this was the common thread running through all of my work. The homes themselves can look quite different because the people living in them are different. But they're all comfortable, warm, layered, intentional, and meant to be lived in. I think we need that feeling from our homes more than ever. Life outside is busy and noisy enough. Home should be the place where you can exhale.

So Soulful Minimalism was never about having less for the sake of having less. It's about removing what doesn't matter so there's more room for what does. Preferably with somewhere very comfortable to sit.

Interior designer Tina Ramchandani is one of Homes & Gardens' Editors-At-Large for By Design, sharing her thoughts on design.

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Most people will dethatch their lawn once a year. Removing thatch undoubtedly keeps a lawn healthy, but investing in an electric dethatcher may seem outlandish for such an infrequent job. So many opt for a spring-tine rake, but these are not always tough enough. There is an alternative that doesn’t break the bank: a lawn dethatching rake.

Such a tool has curved steel tines that slice through the thatch layer and bring it up from the lawn's surface. It offers an affordable way to dethatch a lawn efficiently. Using a manual tool rather than a powered one does require effort, but using the right tool ensures you do a proper job and remove as much thatch as possible as you go.

I found this Walensee lawn dethatching rake on Amazon that is adjustable and features a versatile two-sided head. One side removes thatch deeply, and the other can be used for various jobs, such as loosening soil, removing grass or leaves, or levelling a lawn. It costs less than $30 and can become an essential gardening tool for many seasonal lawn care tasks.

A Strong, Affordable, Versatile Lawn Care Tool

The best time to dethatch a lawn is in spring, but it can also be done in the fall. However, most people will focus on doing it once a year, as part of their spring lawn care. It can be hard work, but it is worth doing, ideally in both spring and the fall. An excessive build-up of thatch – made up of dead grass, roots, and other debris – in the lawn prevents water, air, and nutrients from reaching the soil. It also increases a lawn’s susceptibility to disease.

An electric dethatcher is always a big investment – such as this electric dethatcher and scarifier with collection bag at The Home Depot for around $160. If you only have a small lawn, it is a big outlay, especially when you consider how often you should dethatch a lawn. A spring tine rake (like this fiberglass metal tine rake at Walmart) can do a decent job, but I have found that the thin metal tines can bend and contort as you go. You ideally want something a bit more robust.

That is where the Walensee lawn dethatching rake offers a potential solution. At the time of writing, it costs $29.99, making it an affordable alternative to an expensive electric piece of kit. And it means you don’t risk damaging a lawn rake you may also rely on for getting rid of leaves, preparing seedbeds, or spreading topsoil.

A key feature of the Walensee lawn dethatching rake is the dual-sided 15-inch head. It contains 19 strong, curved steel tines to bite into the thatch and remove it as the rake is pulled through the lawn. The strong steel head will not bend or deform as you use it.

The angle of the head can be adjusted with a wing nut that you can loosen or tighten by hand without tools to find the perfect angle for removing the most thatch. It may take a bit of trial and error to get that angle spot-on, but once you find it, you’ll be efficiently removing large amounts of thatch so your lawn can breathe and rehydrate properly. As well as removing thatch, it also aerates the lawn as it slices through the soil’s surface.

The primary use for the tool is dethatching, but by flipping the head, you can use the curved ends of the steel tines to loosen soil in beds or level the lawn for either planting grass seed or laying turf.

Another versatile feature of the Walensee lawn dethatching rake is the adjustable handle. The length can be adjusted from 40 to 70 inches in 15-inch increments (40, 55, or 70 inches) by adding or removing sections.

You can find a comfortable length and avoid bending or reaching while dethatching. The sections thread together, and you can disassemble the tool so it doesn’t take up so much shed storage space. The handle also has a non-slip soft rubber grip that makes it pleasant to use.

What Shoppers Say

At the time of writing, the Walensee lawn dethatching rake has a rating of 4.2 out of 5 from over 1,000 global ratings on Amazon.

The reviews praise the rake for pulling out thatch efficiently, but do admit it requires some degree of physical effort and takes a bit of tinkering to get it working to its full potential.

‘If you don’t have a huge yard, this de-thatcher gets the job done well; just remember it’s still gonna make you break a sweat,’ says one shopper. Another says: ‘This tool is perfect for maintaining your yard space. Gear up for a core, arms, and shoulders workout.’

‘This rake absolutely does the job. And at the same time gives you a workout,’ notes another customer. ‘You’ll need to practice with the angles and stroke; once you do – blastoff.’

A recurring theme along the reviews is the opinion that the Walensee lawn dethatching rake is best for people with smaller lawns.

‘The Walensee rake is a good buy for small yards,’ says one such review. ‘For larger yards, unless you're 20-something, it will be a workout. It's great when you develop a rhythm and adjust it properly’

Reviewers use phrases like ‘a solid tool’, ‘very sturdy’, ‘pretty durable’ and ‘of great quality’. However, some customers say the adjustable handle loosens during use, and you need to keep stopping to retighten it.

You can do it in spring and fall, but when is it too late to dethatch a lawn? In the fall, when you can dethatch cool-season grasses but not warm-season ones, you shouldn’t do the task when there is less than a month until the first frost and the grass is going dormant. If the grass has stopped growing due to low temperatures, it is too late to dethatch.

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With the autumnal colors signalling fall’s arrival, the first frosts of winter are on the horizon. This means that, depending on your location, it is nearly time to bring less-hardy specimens undercover to protect them from plummeting temperatures.

Some tender plants, like tuberous begonias and evergreen agapanthus, need lifting and storing before the temperatures fall, but cannas and dahlias should wait until after the first frost. Having grown countless tender plants in the gardens I have managed over my horticultural career, including dahlias commercially, I explain why they should be lifted after the first freeze and tips on doing so.

With winter around the corner, now’s also the time to start thinking about your winter gardening checklist and insulate any outside faucets and clay pots against freezing temperatures. Suitable for protecting outside spigots and water barrel taps, you can purchase outdoor faucet covers from Amazon.

Why Lift Cannas and Dahlias in Winter

With cannas and dahlias originating from the American tropics and Mexico and Central America, respectively, it should come as no surprise that they prefer warmer climates and struggle in the cold.

Cannas and dahlias are tender perennials and will not survive if their rhizomes and tubers freeze, which damages their cell structure. This generally means that in USDA hardiness zones 7 or 8 and above, they can be mulched and left in the ground to flower the following year, just as long as the soil is not overly wet.

But in colder areas, you will need to dig them up and overwinter them somewhere cool, dark and frost-free.

When to Lift Cannas and Dahlias

Unlike salvias, pelargoniums, and citrus plants that need to be overwintered indoors or in a greenhouse before temperatures drop, canna and dahlia plants should stay outside until the first light frost has passed. This is because cold temperatures signal the end of the growing season and that the plant should enter dormancy.

However, it is important to wait until your canna or dahlia foliage has changed color or died back, as this indicates that the last of the plant’s energy has been transferred to the rhizome or tuber, ready for next year.

That being said, you will want to keep an eye on the forecast, as you will need to dig up your cannas and dahlias before any hard frosts or when the ground freezes, as this will most likely damage the rhizomes or tubers and cause them to decay in storage.

How to Lift and Prepare Cannas for Storage

Once the foliage has changed color and died back, you can cut back the stem to around 6 inches above soil level, using a clean and sharp pair of secateurs, like these Okatsune 103 Bypass Pruners, available from Amazon. However, for thicker stems that are too big for cutting back with hand pruners, you may want to choose a pair of loppers.

The rhizomes and tubers of more established plants can spread surprisingly far, so start by digging around the plant, using a sharp spade, 12-16 inches away from the stems to avoid damaging the tubers. You can then lever the plant up and carefully lift it onto a tarpaulin or wheelbarrow.

Once lifted, you can brush away any soil clinging to the rhizomes or tubers, which will help prevent rot and make visual inspections later in the winter easier. Healthy rhizomes and tubers should feel firm to the touch. If you spot any soft or squishy areas, this generally indicates rot and these parts should be cut away using a sharp and sanitized knife, like this Linsen pruning knife, available from Amazon, before storing.

You will want to ensure that the skins are dry before storing your cannas and dahlias, as this will also help prevent them from decaying. You can do this by laying them out somewhere warm on a sheet of newspaper or a potting bench (available from Lowe's), out of direct sunlight for about a week.

However, if you grow dahlias and cannas in pots, you do not necessarily have to dig them up. Instead, you can cut them back after the foliage dies back and move the pots to cool, but frost-free position, like an unheated greenhouse or garage.

If the temperature in your storage area looks like it will fall below freezing, you can protect your pots with bubble wrap or blankets to help insulate them.

Storing Cannas and Dahlias

To ensure viability, you will want to store your cannas and dahlias somewhere cool, dry, and dark. A temperature around 45°F to 55°F will keep the plants dormant, but avoid spots where temperatures may drop toward freezing, as this can damage them.

You can store your cannas and dahlias in boxes filled with a medium such as dry soil, sawdust, or vermiculite, or wrap them individually in newspaper or hessian sack. Wooden boxes, such as pine crates available from Lowe’s, or milk crates from The Home Depot, make great options because they encourage airflow. However, to prevent the tubers from sweating and decaying, avoid airtight containers and sealed plastic bags.

If storing in a box, start by adding a layer of sawdust or vermiculite, available from Amazon, to the bottom and place the rhizomes on top with space between them so that they do not touch. Once that layer is compete, you can continue adding layers until the box is full.

Unfortunately, mold can spread rapidly, especially when tubers are in close proximity, so it is advisable to check any stored cannas and dahlias every few weeks whilst they are in storage. If you spot any white or grey mold, you can clean them with a vinegar solution, but any soft tubers should be discarded.

Labelling Stored Rhizomes and Tubers

One key lesson I have learned over the years is to think ahead about how you will label your stored plants, as there is little way to tell their variety or color when you come to plant them next year.

If you are storing large numbers of the same cultivar, you can label boxes and crates with stickers and waterproof markers, but for individual specimens I recommend wrap-around plant labels, available from Amazon, that you can tie to each plant’s rhizome or tuber.

What to Shop

If you've stored your cherished dahlias or cannas away until next year, you might be wondering how to add a bit of color to your patio or porch and brighten it up over the coming winter.

From winter pansies and violas to cyclamen and hellebores, with the right planning, you can have a selection of winter container flowers that will provide a succession of interest through the colder months.

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Now the temperature has dropped, it's not just us retreating indoors – pests are also making their way into our homes and taking over our houseplants. One of the biggest culprits in fall is spider mites.

Indoor heating, plants being moved indoors, and improper plant care are all reasons why these indoor plant pests thrive in October. Luckily, it is possible to deter and get rid of spider mites this season, it just requires a thorough approach.

By dipping into your houseplant care kit to use a plant mister (like this from Amazon) to boost humidity, as well as cleaning houseplant leaves, you can save your houseplants from severe pest damage. Here's what you need to know.

Spider Mites in October

Spider mites are often a problem in fall due to optimal conditions for them to thrive.

These pests hate humidity and enjoy warmth, so indoor heating in fall and winter makes your home inhabitable to them. This is especially a problem if you don't adjust your fall houseplant care to boost humidity levels and adjust watering to keep plants hydrated and not dried out.

Not only this but watering mistakes causing weakened houseplants can also appeal to spider mites. Not taking care to avoid common houseplant mistakes can therefore put your plants in a vulnerable position to their damage.

That's why it's important to use a soil moisture meter (like this on Amazon) to monitor your plant's soil moisture to avoid both over and underwatering.

Likewise, you can increase humidity for indoor plants to make them unhabitable to spider mites. You can relocate plants to a bathroom or use a portable humidifier (like this from Walmart) to do this.

But, if you do find spider mites on your houseplants this October, don't fret. You can get rid of spider mites by following just a few steps.

How to Get Rid of Them

To tackle spider mites in fall, there are a few things you can do.

Firstly, isolate the affected houseplants to stop the spread. Spider mites can multiply fast, so as soon as you spot their fine webbing you should move your plant away from others.

Using sharp pruning tools (like these Fiskars micro-tip pruning snips from Amazon) remove any heavily infested stems and foliage. Make sure to clean your pruning tools afterwards to stop the risk of spreading.

Then, clean your houseplant leaves. Gently wiping them with a damp microfiber cloth can remove the spider mites. Alternatively, wipe the leaves with neem oil (like this from Walmart). This is an organic pest control solution that deters and kills spider mites by suffocating them.

You can also shower down your houseplant to remove the majority of the pests.

Repeat this a few times every few days for 3-4 weeks to ensure all of the spider mites are gone.

Make sure to also boost humidity for your houseplants to deter spider mites going forward. Regularly spraying your houseplant with a plant mister (like this from Walmart) can help.

What to Shop

As well as safeguarding your houseplants against pest damage, there are indoor plant jobs many gardeners forget to do in fall. This includes moving houseplants away from heat sources and washing windows to allow more light in.

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The season for harvesting fruit from your trees may be over for another year, but there is one more vital task to do in fall that keeps your trees healthy and preserves next year's fruit. It won’t take long to do, but it helps to prepare them for next spring.

That key job is to remove any rotten fruit, whether it is on the floor or in the canopy. Clearing away debris, fruits, and mummies ensures that no pathogens or fungi can overwinter on or around the tree and infect your fruit trees next year. It is an important task to add to your fall gardening checklist.

I have looked after fruit trees for many years and also spoken with two experts about the dangers of leaving fruit rotting on trees. When preparing fruit trees for winter, clear away fallen fruit and then mulch. Use an organic mulch, like compost (like this organic compost at Amazon), leaf mold, or bark, to protect fruit trees from frost.

Always Clean Around the Fruit Tree

Fruit falls from the trees for many reasons over the season – it can be natural summer fruit thinning, the result of strong winds or a lack of water, or due to pests and diseases. Some people prefer to leave some of this fallen fruit in situ to feed local wildlife.

However, there are problems that stem from leaving fallen fruit, and it is better to remove it rather than leave rotting fruit around the base of trees.

Cleaning up around the base of your fruit trees includes both removing fallen fruit and leaves. This important fall gardening job helps keep the tree healthy and preserve your future harvests.

Fruit trees often succumb to diseases during the season, and this can show on the leaves or fruits. Leaving disease-ridden leaves or fruit makes the tree and next year’s crop susceptible to the same disease.

‘If you leave the leaves and fruits on the ground, some diseases can overwinter and come back the following year. And sometimes they'll come back with a vengeance,’ says Susan Poizner, fruit tree expert and founder of Orchard People.

‘For instance, let's say there is brown rot on your peach trees,’ adds the fruit tree expert. ‘This causes the fruit to rot and shrivel up, and sometimes it falls to the ground. If you leave it on the ground, in the spring the fungus can produce spores that will infect the blossoms and eventually the fruit.’

Never Leave Fruit Rotting on Trees

Clear all the fruit from the orchard floor, then focus on removing old fruit from the tree itself. These old fruits, known as mummies, pose the same risk as fallen fruit.

‘Mummies are fruits that have dried on the plant, many of which succumbed to fungus, disease, or insects earlier in the year,’ explains Matt Bunch, a horticulturist at The Giving Grove.

‘These pests can still be in the mummied fruits, and if the fruits are not removed, this can lead to re-infection the next growing season. This is most often seen with brown rot and stone fruits, but is also true of scab and black rot in apples, and other pests.’

Scour the tree’s canopy for mummies during fall, when they should stand out against the bare branches once the foliage drops. You can use a fruit picker (available at Walmart) or pole pruner to knock the old fruit from the branch and collect it, whether it lands in the picker’s basket or needs to be picked up off the orchard floor.

What to Do With Old Fruit

It is best to throw away the old fruit or send it to a municipal compost facility, rather than using it to make homemade compost. Many people do add fallen or rotten fruit to a compost pile, but it comes with risks.

‘The hope is that the pathogens or pests will somehow decompose in the compost, but that's not necessarily the case,’ warns Susan Poizner. ‘Often these pathogens or pests can survive in a home compost pile, especially if it doesn't get hot enough to kill them. They may just overwinter and find your fruit trees the following year.’

Matt Bunch claims an active compost pile needs to reach 140°F to kill most pathogens and diseases. A pile needs regular turning, the right ratio of brown and green ingredients, and moisture to heat up to that level – which you can check with a compost thermometer (available at Amazon).

When your compost is not heating up, it is more often than not due to one of those factors not being right. If you wish to be able to compost fallen fruit without the worries, you can try hot composting to generate more heat, kill pathogens and weed seeds, and speed up the process. You can get a 26-gallon hot composter bin at Wayfair.

What to Shop

When you grow fruit trees in pots, another crucial fall task is to move tender fruit trees to a protected spot well ahead of winter. After removing any fruit rotting on trees, keep an eye on the weather forecast so you can overwinter fruit trees in pots when the nighttime temperatures start dropping to 50°F.

This guidance applies to any tender fruit trees, like citrus, olives, peaches, and avocados. While the likes of apples and pears are traditionally hardy, any trees are less hardy in containers than when in the ground. Consider moving pots together for winter against a wall to create a warmer microclimate.

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There’s something undeniably luxurious about a silk pillowcase. For a relatively small investment, it’s an easy way to make everyday life feel a little more indulgent, turning your nightly routine into a more relaxing ritual.

Beyond their beautiful look and feel, silk pillowcases are naturally temperature-regulating and can help reduce friction against your skin and hair as you sleep – putting the beauty in beauty sleep. For that reason, silk has long been my pillowcase material of choice, and the Silk Pillowcase from Avocado has quickly earned a place in my regular rotation.

Stitched from pure 22-Momme Mulberry silk, it's a lustrous silk pillowcase worth investing in, or treating a friend or family member to as we approach the 2026 holiday hosting season.

I was first introduced to the Avocado Silk Pillowcase on a recent press trip with the brand to Newport Beach, California. It arrived on my bed, encasing the Avocado Green Pillow, and instantly added luxurious comfort to my sleep space.

Stitched from pure 22-Momme Mulberry silk − widely renowned as one of the finest, strongest silk fibers − the soft and sumptuous feel made my new best pillow even comfier. I've been using both together ever since.

If you're a hot sleeper, silk is one of the materials I'd always suggest for better sleep. It's naturally temperature- and moisture-regulating and feels genuinely cool to the touch, keeping your head and neck comfortable all night without the worry of overheating.

Silk also helps to prevent tangled, knotty hair come morning by reducing friction and retaining moisture, both of which are equally beneficial for your skin, too.

More generally, it's a natural, biodegradable fabric, and it requires less water to harvest than other fabrics, like cotton. The delicate yet durable weave means your investment (as the pillowcase is pretty expensive, at $105 in a Queen size, though currently reduced) will last for years to come, and it's OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100-certified, free of any harsh or dangerous chemicals, too. And, though expensive, it still sits a little more affordably than my other alternative favorite, the slip Silk Pillowcase, available at Amazon, which is $120 for a Queen.

You may have previously avoided silk pillowcases out of worry that it may be difficult to wash, dry, and care for this particular type of bed linen. Rest assured − the Avocado Silk Pillowcase comes paired with an included protective GOTS-certified organic cotton wash bag. Simply place the pillowcase inside and machine wash on a cold, gentle cycle, before hanging to dry out of direct sunlight.

The Avocado Silk Pillowcase boasts an impressive overall rating of 4.7 stars on the Avocado site, across 118 reviews.

'When only the best will do,' says Dwight. 'Soft, beautiful color, washes well (follow guidelines). I have about four brands of silk pillowcases, and I am stopping here. Avocado's is the best.'

Another more recent review, from Arisia, adds, 'Keeps my hair sleek. The silk tames my frizz! I recently switched to percale cases while I washed my silk, and was wondering what [...] was going on with my hair. Forgot how much the silk does. Also like the pockets, keeps the pillow tucked inside the case. Need to get another pair soon.'

As we approach the holiday season, I can't recommend buying a silk pillowcase, particularly this one, for any friends and family more. They make a beautiful last-minute luxury gift if you're caught short, and the gift of better sleep never goes unappreciated. Better yet, pair it with a silk eye mask, such as the Brooklinen Mulberry Silk Eyemask, for a gift that truly goes the extra mile.

More to Shop

If you're interested in shopping for more silk pillowcases and bedding picks to gift this holiday season, browse a handpicked, Sleep Editor-approved collection of six below.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

You may be wondering, 'Can silk pillowcases stop breakouts?' Scientists assure that there's plenty of evidence to point to yes, but this will depend on your sleep position, as back sleepers will have minimal contact with the material.

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Thanksgiving is, at its core, about slowing down and spending quality time with family and friends. But when your home becomes the gathering place for the holiday, the pressure to get everything looking its best can quickly take away from the joy of hosting.

The good news is that preparing your home for Thanksgiving doesn’t have to mean deep cleaning or ruthlessly decluttering. A few simple, considered changes can make your space feel more organized, welcoming, and ready for guests, without adding another layer of stress to an already busy season.

We spoke to experts to discover how to simplify your home systems, focus on the areas that matter most, and host Thanksgiving with less effort. The result? A home that feels as warm and inviting as the occasion itself, leaving you more time to enjoy it.

1. Don't Clean The Whole House, Edit It

The secret to an elevated, effortless space is not thorough decluttering and cleaning; it is editing your home. Creating space for the eye to rest, to move without friction, and for your design to stand out can help to make your home feel more considered, with the added bonus of being easier to manage.

The first step is to reduce visual noise, starting in the living room where guests will gather, before working through to other key spaces such as the dining room, kitchen, and bathrooms. Work with the rooms that you will use, and ignore those guests will not see to preserve time and energy.

'In living spaces, fold and put away extra blankets, magazines, baskets, or other storage vessels that people may bump into (this too will make the space feel a bit bigger),' suggests Dianne O’Connor, CEO of Weston Table, who also recommends giving thought to a pared-back color scheme when using flowers or candles. 'In small spaces, less is always more.'

This might mean employing a few decluttering methods to help tackle piles on surfaces such as coffee tables and entryway credenzas, but keep it minimal. You do not have to declutter your whole house or eliminate all signs of life for one event.

When it comes to the dining space, Kate Rumson, Villeroy & Boch’s Hosting Expert, adds, ‘Let each element breathe; consider candles, seasonal foliage, and a few well-placed centerpieces,’ she recommends. ‘It's about creating a visual feast that complements, rather than competes with, the delicious dishes you're serving.’

If in doubt, ask yourself what you would focus your effort on if you only had two hours before guests arrived, and work from there.

2. Plan Ahead

It pays to plan your Thanksgiving party ideas well ahead of time. The longer you have to work, the less you will have to cram in the days or hours leading up to guests arriving. This means that you will have more time to spend relaxing with your friends and family on the day itself.

Start in the kitchen. Consider your Thanksgiving menu, plan your grocery list, check that your appliances and utensils are in good working order, and create a plan for storing leftovers neatly. With everything laid out, it will be easier to keep a kitchen tidy when cooking Thanksgiving dinner, too.

Wash your fancy dishes, glassware, and serving dishes. To polish cutlery, put some hot water and a few tablespoons of white vinegar in a bowl and submerge your cutlery to soak until the water is cool enough to handle. Then, using a microfiber cloth or tea towel, wipe down each utensil for a streak-free shine.

You can also set the table for Thanksgiving well in advance for effortless on-the-day hosting, suggests Devon Wegman, Design Director and Founder of Devon Grace Interiors. 'Keeping things simple is best. If possible, opt for benches instead of chairs at the table to maximize seating. On the table, placemats will crowd it too much, so opt for chargers under plates instead. Anything else on the table should do double duty as function and decor. Think decorative glasses for water and wine, a decorative pitcher for water, and decorative napkin folding to add texture.'

If you use fresh flowers or yard trimmings, you can put those in closer to the big day.

3. Consider Layout

You will likely have to rearrange furniture before hosting, especially if you live in a smaller home or apartment. You want to create easy walkways for guests so that no one is tripping over anything, while ensuring there is ample room for everyone to sit.

To organize a living room, Mary Jo Contello, Professional Organizer and Founder of Organized by MJ, explains, 'Making sure there is enough comfortable seating is very important, ensuring it is accessible for all of your guests. I then recommend targeting clearing the area of toys, paperwork, and clutter so guests can put drinks and small plates down without items teetering on the edge.

4. Concentrate on the Kitchen

With dinner the highlight of this holiday, the kitchen will become the inescapable heart of your home. Because of this, it is smart to spend time here before the big day so everything runs smoothly and your home appears effortless to guests. This is especially true if you are hosting Thanksgiving in a small space.

To make steady progress before Thanksgiving, experts suggest:

1. Decluttering the counters: It is essential to keep kitchen counters clear to maximize your workspace. Begin by decluttering your kitchen, removing non-essentials from the kitchen entirely. You will be amazed at how even just a quick clear-out can be perfect for making more counter space in a small kitchen
2. Doing a stock check: Di Ter Avest, Professional Organizer and Owner of Di Is Organized, says, 'Over time, pantries can get chaotic with expired food, misplaced items, or lack of organization. Start by taking everything out of the pantry and placing it on a countertop or kitchen table where you can clearly see everything you have. Then, go through each item one by one, discarding anything that has expired.
3. Planning the menu: With your pantry organized, Lauren Saltman, Professional Home Organizer and Founder of Living Simplified, suggests, 'Menu plan early [a menu grocery list pad from Amazon can help] and don't forget that your guests might be around before Thanksgiving, so be sure to have extra snacks on hand. Then, create a detailed shopping list and get to the grocery store before it gets crowded or runs out of an important ingredient.'
4. Dividing your kitchen into zones: Lina DaSilva, Cleaning Expert and Founder of Toronto Shine Cleaning, recommends, 'Divide your kitchen into zones based on activities – prep, cook, serve, and wash. This streamlines movement and ensures that tools and ingredients are at hand where needed. It also helps when it comes to cleaning up after hosting, too.'
5. Preparing cleanup areas: Keeping on top of your washing up over Thanksgiving will reduce your stress levels while hosting, as well as reduce visual clutter and banish bad kitchen smells. Designating a zone specifically for dishes and ensuring you have enough trash bags in advance can make cleanup easier on the day.

5. Edit the Entryway

As the first impression of your home, there is merit in designing a timeless entryway to welcome your guests into your space. The goal is to make this area feel welcoming, not just practical.

Yes, quality entryway storage will go a long way to corralling guest clutter and preventing clutter creep, but focusing on lighting, fragrance, and even the temperature can start your party off on the right foot.

To prepare your entryway thoroughly for Thanksgiving, we suggest:

1. Decluttering: Edit your collection of coats, shoes, and bags to make space for incoming guests' belongings.
2. Adding seating: Seating such as entryway benches is one of the things most organized people have in their entryway, making it easier for guests to put on or remove their shoes without tracking mud through your home. Using multi-functional entryway bench furniture is particularly helpful in small spaces.
3. Boosting storage: Preempt the inevitable rush of shoes, scarves, coats, and more by providing ample storage solutions, such as hooks or storage baskets. The self-adhesive Naittoop, Adhesive Hooks or the Command Medium Designer Hooks are great small mudroom ideas if you're looking to add extra coat space in a hurry.
4. Prioritizing functional decor: With high traffic expected, your decor needs to be minimal to prevent adding to visual clutter. Consider decorating front doors with door mats with seasonal motifs, from Amazon, to add a seasonal touch without cluttering sideboards, for instance.
5. Considering lighting: Tasteful entryway lighting ideas are essential to creating a warm and inviting atmosphere. Consider floor or table lamps with soft, warm lighting. This will also make it easier for guests to see what they are doing as they come and go, preventing trips and slips.
6. Finding a fragrance: Our Home Fragrance Expert Ottilie Blackhall reminds us that our homes are often shut up against the cold in fall, trapping musty odors. She suggests using the best essential oil diffusers to scent the space and mask odors from shoes or cooking. Avoid candles, she adds, which could be knocked over in the bustle.

6. Bring Balance to Bathrooms

Guests are unlikely to spend much time in your bathroom, but they will be used at some point throughout the day. You do not need to spend lots of time here in advance beyond your usual bathroom cleaning routine and tidying away personal essentials.

As a general rule of thumb, it is best to stock the space with some designer-approved guest bathroom essentials; the idea being that your guests should not have to ask for anything while in your home.

Check the toilet paper stock, and ensure extras are kept in a tidy but obvious location. Swap out your hand towels for some pretty, freshly washed ones, and consider adding in a nice hand soap and a candle or diffuser to help mask odors and make guests feel more comfortable.

7. Don't Forget The Invisible Details

More often than not, making a home more welcoming is not about your design and hosting skills (although these certainly help), but about the tiny, invisible details that contribute to a comfortable home.

First and foremost, consider temperature. No one wants to be freezing cold or sweating while trying to enjoy their dinner. While the best temperature for a thermostat is a contested topic, experts generally recommend somewhere between 68-70 degrees Fahrenheit for everyday comfort in fall and winter.

Next, assess the lighting around your home, especially at the dinner table. Dining room lighting for hosting is a tricky balance to get right, begins Artem Kropovinsky, Interior Designer and Founder of Arsight. The room should be lit intimately, but not left so dark that your guests can't see what is on their plate. He suggests starting by lighting candles for a soft, warm light that makes your home cozy for Thanksgiving, and then layer more functional lighting from there.

Scent is next. 'You should never underestimate the power of home fragrance for setting the mood when hosting,' explains our Home Fragrance Expert, Ottilie. 'Making a home smell like fall, with comforting spices and warming notes, can make your home feel more welcoming, while masking any odors that might arise from a closed house, piles of shoes, and cooking dinner. Use one fragrance around the home to build intensity without it becoming overwhelming.'

Finally, consider music, using connected speakers around your home to play calming, seasonal music at a background level. Not only does this help to set a comforting yet elevated mood, but it can help to fill any quieter lulls in conversation.

FAQs

How Can I Make Hosting Thanksgiving Easier?

To make Thanksgiving hosting smoother, remember to ask for help, or never turn down help from guests. Just because you are the host doesn’t mean you have to juggle everything alone; get your guests involved to make the event more communal and bring people together. It could be something as simple as a guest getting the drinking glasses out of the cabinet for you. Any help is a big help.

How Can You Make Thanksgiving Guests Feel at Home?

Caroline Roberts, Professional Home Organizer and Owner of This Simplified Island, suggests ensuring your guests can help themselves as much as possible, especially if they are staying the night.

'Post the WiFi password somewhere visible, place towels in their room, display basic toiletries in the bathroom, put an extra blanket on the bed, and show them where the dishes are and how to make coffee. They will feel welcome, and you will have a little bit less to do.'

It can also be helpful to include a welcome sheet with any additional information, such as the locations of light switches, how to use the climate control and shower, and where to find refreshments in the house. Don't be afraid to lay out some gentle boundaries or rules here, too.

How Do You Plan a Thanksgiving Meal?

Caroline says, 'The Thanksgiving meal can feel overwhelming. Create your menu well in advance and test any new recipes you are considering for the big day.

'Write down the cooking temperatures and cooking times for each item. Note which items can be prepared far in advance and frozen, which items require thawing, and which items can be prepared a day or two in advance. Once you have this information, create a timeline of when things will be prepared and cooked.

'Remember that people want to help! Ask guests to bring sides, desserts, or drinks. You don’t have to do it all yourself.'

If in doubt about where to clean, consider using the guest scanning method to spot dirt spots before they arrive.

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I am passionate about creating homes that reflect the people who live in them and the places they inhabit. When I think about this, I often find myself returning to the homes created and curated by Marella Agnelli.

My delight in researching the life and incredible homes of Marella Agnelli goes back some 25 years, when I was a student studying in Rome. However, it was a recent opportunity to spend an afternoon with her absolutely gracious niece, Marella Caracciolo Chia (who co-authored Agnelli’s memoir, Marella Agnelli: The Last Swan, available on Amazon), and tour Caracciolo Chia’s apartment that cemented my lifelong fondness for Agnelli and her extraordinary approach to design.

Born to an American mother and Italian father, Marella married Fiat heir Gianni Agnelli at age 26. She was quite candid about not having a clue how to decorate or run the homes she inherited at an early age, but over the course of her life she threw herself passionately into the role of decorator, gardener, and patron of the arts.

Of course, most of us are not collecting grand estates or building extraordinary art collections on the scale of the Agnellis. But there are so many wonderful lessons from Marella about how to create a home that feels personal, layered and alive.

First and foremost, a home should feel collected. Agnelli was an absolute genius at the 'mix'. What is boring is when everything in a room feels predictable or too perfectly coordinated. Experiment with what speaks to you. You might have a room of contemporary pieces and try an accent of an antique that has meaning to you, reminds you of a trip, or was passed down in your family. Conversely, a more traditional room might come alive with an unexpected contemporary piece, such as a modern side table. The goal isn't to match everything. It is to create a dialogue between things you love.

Don't be afraid to have a point of view. It took time but Marella studied homes and gardens and was not afraid to take her homes into their next chapter. She honored the past but wasn’t afraid to strip away certain details so the rooms and gardens could evolve with her family’s needs and what felt al corrente.

Rooms should be about creating an atmosphere, a beautiful background for life to take place in. Admittedly, there are beautiful rooms that photograph exquisitely but are highly unlivable or feel lifeless when you experience them. What I, as a designer, am interested in is helping people to live well. Beautiful spaces that are the stage for life. One of Marella’s tricks was to add bits to rooms that reminded her guests and her family to feel comfortable. She loved to use wicker throughout her homes – even in her formal city apartments! I think this was partially a nod to her love of gardens, but also really spoke to her not wanting to take things too seriously and be too stodgy.

Life is not stagnant, nor should homes be. The Agnellis bought different historic and contemporary properties throughout their lives. They wanted to be at the center of the bustle in Turin, then sought privacy outside the city as their profile grew. They wanted to remain connected to Rome, and later became increasingly interested in the creative energy of the United States, taking an apartment in New York.

Their homes evolved with them. They experimented with different architectural styles, championed young artists, and stayed engaged with the creative conversations of their time. The black leather coverlet in the bedroom of their Roman apartment must have been a shock when it was proposed, and admittedly, it’s not my favorite element of the space, but it shows that she was always experimenting. They understood that different chapters of life – and different architectural settings – call for different things. They were open to what artists were expressing as the world changed through the 1950s, '60s and '70s, and they allowed their collections and interiors to evolve alongside them.

We can all take a lesson from that. Take something out of a room. Rearrange your furniture. Move a piece of art. Try something unexpected. You may be surprised by the fresh energy it brings. I often came home from school as a girl, and my mom had rearranged a room. I grew to understand that it helped her clear her mind and not get too stuck in the past or a certain idea.

Humans have an innate desire to connect with nature. Biophilic design is an architectural and interior design approach that integrates nature into built spaces to improve human health and well-being. Thankfully, there is a lot more emphasis on the importance of biophilia in interior design and architecture today. Agnelli, however, was ahead of her time in opening spaces to connect with her gardens, to embrace outdoor living, and to bring all sorts of plants and flowers – humble and grand – into her spaces. She looked for ways to open up her homes to the outside. She felt the garden was the most important room of the house and seemed to understand how gardens renewed and sustained her. She was constantly incorporating indoor plants (again, usually in humble little wicker baskets) into her rooms.

Ok, yes, she had a sensational budget, but she captured so many of my guiding principles of design. Being open to emerging artists, mix humble and ultra-luxe. Chicness is having your own point of view. Less is more. Be unexpected. There is always a bit of wicker. Live with the seasons, live well. The garden is my favorite room. Your room should be an expression of you. She reminds us that everyday small rituals can feel luxurious – don’t forget candlelight, music, and fresh flowers.

As I reflected on Marella's life, I was reminded of another book I read this summer: Arthur Brooks’ Build the Life You Really Want (available on Amazon). I was fascinated by his studies of happiness. He states that two of the macronutrients of happiness are finding enjoyment in life and finding purpose in your life. While Marella was greatly privileged, she had her fair share of adversity, heartbreak, and grief. I do love the idea that art and design can be of great comfort and enjoyment. I know this is true for myself, my mother, and my grandmother. You can see through her memoir that she created enjoyment and found a sense of purpose in her life through the decorative arts. Her purpose in life was to be a steward of great architecture, to foster and promote the work of artists and artisans. This, however, can be expressed through tending to a windowbox-sized garden, going to a museum and experiencing the work of an artist, sewing a pillow from a textile you found on holiday, scouring a flea market for a set of wine glasses you use for book club; the possibilities are endless. In times of uncertainty and even grief, diving into a new project and finding beauty in the world can help keep us putting one foot in front of the other.

Interior designer Lindsay Anyon Brier is one of Homes & Gardens' Editors-At-Large for By Design, sharing her thoughts on design.

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In October, it is tempting to tuck every plant in as if the backyard were a nursery. But there are some plants you should never winterize by bringing indoors or sealing under plastic. They generally need outdoor cold or winter dormancy, and overprotection can disrupt their cycle, encourage rot, or weaken next year’s growth. The right choice still depends on the plant, drainage, and your USDA hardiness zone.

I’ve learned to treat fall protection in moderation: protect tender roots and pots where needed, but let hardy plants read the weather.

Personally, I just love letting seed heads and spent stems stand, too; a little fall patience pairs beautifully with collecting seeds for next season. A wireless outdoor thermometer from Amazon helps you track the real conditions in your own yard, but in the meantime, here are seven plants you don't need to winterize.

1. Tulips

Tulips are not houseplants waiting for a winter holiday. Their bulbs need a sustained cool period to flower well, which is why gardeners in warmer regions often buy pre-chilled bulbs.

In much of USDA Zones 3–7, October is prime planting time: set bulbs in well-drained soil, pointy end up, at a depth recommended for the variety. In Zones 8–10, choose varieties suited to mild winters and follow the supplier’s chilling advice.

I once tried to rescue a pot of tulips by bringing it indoors. The leaves arrived early, pale and lanky, feeling very sorry for themselves. Warmth can prompt premature growth, while wet, stagnant soil invites bulb rot. Cold is part of the schedule, not an emergency.

For a generous drift, tulip bulbs from Nature Hills are an easy way to choose cultivars by color and bloom time. For planting depth and timing, see H&G’s guide to how to plant tulip bulbs.

2. Daffodils

Daffodils have the sturdy air of plants that have already read the forecast. Most need a period of cold to develop flowers, then do their own disappearing act after spring bloom.

Leave established bulbs in the ground where winters are reliably cool; don’t lift and store them in a warm garage simply because the foliage looks untidy. Let leaves yellow naturally so the bulb can replenish itself.

In very warm climates, select narcissus types known to perform with less chilling, or pre-chill bulbs if the grower recommends it. A blanket of fleece over dormant bulbs adds little, the more useful kindness is preventing waterlogged soil.

If yours are in a container, make sure drainage holes are open and move the pot to a sheltered spot only if repeated hard freezes threaten the root ball. For naturalizing beneath trees, try daffodil bulbs from Breck’s.

3. Peonies

Peonies are devoted to the annual rhythm: spring growth, extravagant flowers, then a long, unshowy retreat. Herbaceous peonies die back above ground, while their roots stay put and rest. In Zones 3–8, that cold spell helps set the stage for a good display. Bringing a garden peony indoors is not pampering, it is a confusing change of season delivered in a pot.

I leave the stems standing until frost has finished the foliage, then cut herbaceous types back and clear diseased material. Don’t pile a dense, soggy mound of mulch over the crown, that can trap moisture and contribute to rot.

Newly planted peonies or those exposed to severe freeze-thaw cycles may appreciate a light, loose mulch after the ground cools. Tree peonies have different pruning needs, so identify yours before reaching for the shears.

If you’re adding a plant, peonies from Nature Hills offer varieties for different gardens. For planting depth and care, H&G’s how to grow peonies guide is a useful companion.

4. Hostas

Hostas do not need a heated winter hideaway. These shade-loving perennials naturally die back after frost and return from their crowns in spring and many varieties are hardy through Zones 3–9. Their winter rest is part of their life cycle. Keeping them warm and actively growing indoors can leave them weak and out of sync with the season.

The exception is not “hostas need winterizing,” but “young roots in exposed pots may need help.” A container freezes faster than garden soil, especially on a windy patio. In colder zones, tuck the pot against a sheltered wall or move it to an unheated garage, where the plant stays dormant.

Don’t wrap foliage in plastic or keep soil waterlogged. I label pots before the leaves vanish because spring is a poor time to remember which hosta was the blue one.

For a simple record, weatherproof plant labels from Amazon are handy for marking varieties and planting dates. H&G’s advice on how to winterize hostas covers container-specific protection.

5. Garlic

Fall-planted garlic needs time underground. Hardneck garlic, especially, benefits from winter cold to form well-divided bulbs, whereas softneck varieties are often better suited to milder regions.

Plant cloves in fall, typically October or November in colder areas, and later in warm regions, then mulch lightly with straw once the soil cools. The cloves are meant to stay outside, not be brought indoors to “overwinter.”

The danger is often too much water or a thick, airless covering, rather than cold itself. In Zones 3–5, a few inches of loose straw can buffer freeze-thaw swings, but in warmer zones, use less and keep an eye on drainage.

A soil moisture meter, available from Amazon, can help container growers avoid the classic winter mistake of watering on a summer schedule. Dormant soil dries more slowly.

For planting stock, garlic bulbs from Botanical Interests can help you find varieties by type. H&G’s guide to when to plant garlic lays out the regional timing.

6. Coneflowers

Coneflowers are prairie plants that know winter is coming and do not require a fleece sleeping bag. Hardy across a broad range, often Zones 3–9 depending on species and cultivar, established echinacea benefits from a natural dormant season. Leave the seed heads standing as goldfinches will appreciate the pantry, and the silhouettes lend a little architecture to an otherwise sleepy border.

In my own beds, I resist the urge to tidy every stem in October. A clean, close cut can remove useful winter food and habitat, while early warmth under a cover may encourage tender growth at the wrong time.

If disease affected the foliage, remove it and discard it rather than leaving infected debris. New transplants and pots may need a loose mulch or sheltered position in colder zones, but mature in-ground plants usually manage without a full wrap.

To extend the color, coneflower seeds from Burpee offer plenty of options. H&G’s guide to overwintering your garden explains how to prepare beds while leaving hardy plants to follow their natural cycle.

7. Milkweed

Native milkweeds are adapted to the winters of their home ranges, and many need cold stratification before seed germination. That does not mean every milkweed is hardy everywhere because species differ, so match the plant to your region and local monarch guidance.

In suitable zones, leave established plants outdoors to die back naturally. Digging them up for a warm indoor stay can disturb their roots and interrupt dormancy.

If you want to collect seed, wait for pods to mature and split, then store dry seed or sow it outdoors so winter supplies the chill. Mark the spot before the stems disappear as milkweed can be surprisingly good at vanishing exactly where you planted it. I use a weatherproof label and resist covering the whole patch.

For young plants in pots, move containers to a protected, unheated place if your winters are harsher than the species can tolerate. Choose a regional species from milkweed seeds at Prairie Moon Nursery.

“Don’t winterize” is shorthand, not a dare to abandon the garden. Hardy, in-ground plants generally need their normal seasonal rest, whereas pots, new plantings, and marginally hardy varieties may need targeted shelter.

Check the tag, drainage, and local zone, then protect only what benefits from protection. A breathable layer of garden frost fleece from Lowe’s is useful for tender plants during a forecast freeze, but it need not become the uniform of the entire yard. Leave the cold lovers outdoors, and they’ll repay your restraint when spring finally turns up.

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Hostas are some of the most striking plants for both spring and summer, but to keep them coming back in their prime it's important to have a little clear-up around them to deter those dreaded slugs and snails.

These gorgeous foliage plants welcome in the new gardening season with a flush of spectacularly lush leaves that can be ribbed, decked in painterly color strokes or edged in silver or gold. In late spring come tall spikes of flowers in lilac or white. They're also brilliant for those shadier spots in our backyards. No wonder, then, that they're a hugely popular group of plants, for growing either in patio and doorstep containers or at the front of borders.

Growing hostas isn't tricky in itself, but keeping their leaves free of that tell tale ragged snail and slug damage can be challenging. However, with a little thought given to autumn prevention – essentially removing suitable habitats for hostas' slithery munchers – you'll notice a big difference the following spring. First up, something warm and waterproof for the hands, like these CoolJob gardening gloves from Amazon, is essential for this rather damp and muddy gardening job.

Clear Leaf Litter

It's important to understand a little about slugs and snails if you want to save your hostas from their unwanted advances. And the first thing they need in order to thrive is plenty of damp hiding places to overwinter and lay their eggs.

Slugs and snails lay their eggs (sometimes over 100 per batch) all year round but spring and autumn are peak periods. In October the cooler temperatures and steadier rainfall trigger a wave of mating and egg-laying in the mollusc population. So it makes sense that some timely intervention around now will make a difference to your hostas in spring.

One of the main egg-laying sites for slugs and snails is under garden debris, in leaf litter, so getting rid of withered and yellowing hosta leaves around now is a wise plan and it's one of the best slug-control methods.

A small spring-tine rake, such as the Expert Gardener 8in from Walmart, is handy here as it can get in between your plants more easily and make removing decaying foliage so much simpler. Next, cut back any hosta leaves that have turned brown or yellow and wilted back.

Cutting them cleanly off at soil level with sharp secateurs like these Corona Yard Essentials carbon steel pruners from Lowes. If leaves are soft and mushy, you can just pull them off with your gloved hands. You can throw all your waste on the compost heap where they'll rot down making excellent soil improver for next year's plants.

Garden designer Andrew Marshall from Go Wild Landscapes in Oxford, UK, offers similar advice:

'October is a great time to tidy up around your hostas, before we get the first proper, hard frosts of the year. Slugs and snails love to hide around these plants as they provide great shelter as well as being a few degrees warmer than elsewhere,' he says.

'I trim back leaves that are browning or yellowing, leaving only the brighter green growth. This older growth tends to be favourable to slugs and snails, which will end up finding a new place to live.'

Get Rid Of Overwintering Snails

Slugs and snails like to overwinter in the protected soil around plants, especially their favorite ones. While it's unlikely you'll be able to remove every single critter, a little remedial action in October can cut slug and snail numbers significantly.

To interrupt the overwintering cycle of slugs and snails, clearing away the topsoil around your hosta plants is a useful tool. Use a sharp-edged trowel like the Workpro stainless steel garden trowel from Amazon to carefully scrape away the top inch of soil around the base of your plants.

Also check the undersides of any pots (not forgetting any your hostas are actually growing in – growing hostas in pots is a great way to look after them), tiles, bricks, logs or boards nearby. If you spot clusters of clear bead-like eggs, those are next spring's slugs and snails waiting to hatch, so get rid of them now, and remove anything that's likely to harbor eggs on their damp undersides.

Another really useful preventative measure to take in October is to hand-pick snails at night and remove them. It's as basic as it sounds. You simply head out in the evening with a flashlight, a warm damp evening is best, and pick off any critters you see. Keep a bucket of soapy water in the other hand and just drop them in. It's extremely satisfying!

If you feel yourself tiring, just remember that one slug can lay 500 eggs per year, while each snail can produce double that amount.

Protect Your Plants

Hand in hand with prevention goes protection when learning how to stop slugs destroying plants. So once you've cleared up the places they like to hide and the spots they prefer to lay their eggs, it's time to give the plants themselves some protection against any pests that are left behind or travelled further to seek out food.

Most sustainable slug and snail deterrents, such as nematodes and garlic wash, are best applied in spring when the soil warms up snail and slug populations become active again. However, copper tape around the rim of your hosta pots can help to protect your plants, creating a barrier that they prefer not to cross.

A crushed shell mulch can also help to deter slugs and snails. The best chemical-free way to go about it is by saving up your own washed eggshells, drying them in the oven for ten minutes, then breaking them up to a coarse mulch, which you then spread around each plant to provide a protective ring.

It's also worth remembering that hostas with thick, puckered or waxy blue leaves are the ones that are most resistant to gastropods, so if you're investing in new plants this season, why not give them a go? Known for its resilience is 'Sum and Substance', which you can buy at Garden Goods Direct. 'Blue Mouse Ears', also available at Garden Goods Direct, is another variety that's less prone to mollusc munching.

What to Shop

When it comes to hostas and gastropods, the old adage really is true: a stitch in time saves nine. So do dedicate an hour or two to your hosta plants in October to save the leaves from being munched in spring. It really doesn't take long to remove those old leaves, have a little clear-up and pop a few protective measures in place.

Your spring hostas will definitely thank you for it – as will many other backyard favorites, such as delphiniums, dahlias, sunflowers and all manner of tasty new spring vegetables and greens.

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Inevitably, furniture trends have a life cycle. What once felt fresh and exciting can end up feeling tired and overdone a few years later. While no furniture choices are inherently good or bad, being in the know about outdated furniture trends that designers are avoiding can help ensure you don’t end up with a home you quickly tire of.

Looking ahead to 2027, we spoke with interior designers about the furniture trends they consider dated and the alternatives they’ll be implementing in the new year, from fabrics and finishes to shapes and details.

1. Pale Timber

Melissa Hutley, Interior Designer & Co-Founder of Hutley & Humm, explains that we are moving away from furniture that feels too uniform or overly ‘new’. ‘Pale timber has been popular for a long time, particularly on clean-lined, contemporary furniture, but when every piece has the same light, washed finish, it can make a room feel rather flat and lacking in character,’ she points out.

‘Instead, I would choose furniture in richer, more characterful timbers such as walnut, warm oak, or darker-stained woods with plenty of visible grain and natural variation,’ adds Melissa. These pieces can anchor a room and become part of its character rather than simply blending into the background.

2. Exaggerated Sculptural Shapes

‘Very bulbous sofas and furniture pieces where the silhouette is almost more important than the function have become so ubiquitous that they’re beginning to feel tied to a particular moment,’ Hattie Hansard, Director at Joanna Wood, shares. ‘There’s still a place for sculptural furniture, but we’re craving rooms that feel a little less self-conscious and more collected. When every piece is trying to be a statement, a room can feel contrived.'

Her preference moving forward is furniture with strong, elegant proportions and a slightly quieter silhouette. ‘You can introduce personality through beautiful fabrics. A really well-proportioned sofa or armchair will always have longevity because you can completely reinvent it through reupholstery.'

3. Furniture Without a Purpose

‘Furniture without a clear purpose can sometimes feel rather static, particularly as our homes are increasingly expected to work harder for us, accommodating entertaining, relaxing, working, and spending time together,’ interior designer and founder of Pringle & Pringle Sophie Pringle says.

Sophie is increasingly looking for pieces that encourage interaction and have a reason for being there, rather than furniture that simply fills a space. ‘It’s all about choosing furniture that encourages people to actually use a room and spend time together,’ she adds. 'For example, game tables are becoming an increasingly popular living room trend. They create a natural focal point in a room and can be beautiful objects in their own right while also being genuinely functional.'

4. Bouclé

‘When the same very tactile, ‘bobbly’ sofa or armchair starts appearing everywhere, it can lose some of its impact and begin to feel rather predictable,’ interior designer Octavia Dickinson declares.

While Octavia isn’t dismissing bouclé entirely, she thinks we are moving away from sofas and armchairs where texture is the main event and instead focusing on pieces with more character, craftsmanship, and decorative detail. ‘Choose tailored sofas and armchairs with decorative detailing such as piping, pleating, skirts, contrast fabrics, silks, and beautiful trims. These can all make a piece feel much more considered and individual,’ she suggests.

5. Bobbin Furniture

Bobbin furniture was a huge bedroom trend last year, and while it's a classic look that will never technically date, designers warn it is starting to feel a bit overdone. ‘Bobbin furniture has a lovely decorative quality, but we’ve seen a lot of it recently, particularly in new, painted pieces,’ interior designer Rebecca Hughes shares.

Of course, bobbin detailing within furniture can be done well, but Rebecca thinks it works best now when the timber has a rich, natural quality to it – as with Alfred Newall’s work – rather than being painted.

Moving forward, Rebecca is also increasingly drawn to pieces with a quieter individuality. ‘This could be antique or contemporary furniture. I particularly love pieces that showcase beautiful marquetry, bamboo detailing, or simply an elegant silhouette. These are the pieces that give a room a collected, timeless feel.'

6. Overly Perfect Pieces

‘Identical finishes, predictable silhouettes, and pieces designed to look exactly the same from one home to the next can make a space feel more like a showroom than a reflection of the people who live there,’ interior designer Nina Lichtenstein argues, stating that 'perfect' furniture is outdated in 2027.

As more of what surrounds us becomes standardized and digitally produced, Nina is seeing a move toward the opposite in our homes: ‘We’re craving furniture that feels connected to a particular material, maker, or place that brings character to a home that mass-produced pieces often cannot reproduce.’

Whether it’s an antique dining table, a reupholstered armchair, or some handcrafted wooden bookshelves, these pieces can bring the individuality to our homes that so many of us are seeking.

7. Scallop Silhouettes

‘Scallops are a lovely way of introducing softness and a decorative edge to furniture, but when a particular shape becomes too widely used, it can start to lose some of its charm,’ interior designer Laura Stephens notes. ‘I think we’re moving toward furniture that feels more considered and characterful, rather than relying on a recognizable decorative motif to make a statement.'

Laura suggests looking for pieces that feel a little unexpected. This could be a slightly unusual curve or wave, an interesting leg, an asymmetric detail, or an unexpected proportion. ‘These shapes have more longevity because they aren’t tied to one particular decorative trend,’ she concludes.

All interior trends are cyclical, and furniture follows this path. Furniture styles disappear, return decades later, and are often reinterpreted in completely new ways. It’s not about constantly replacing your furniture to keep up with new trends, but instead decorating according to your style, investing in pieces you genuinely love, and letting a room evolve over time.

After all, the most successful home isn’t necessarily the one that follows every new trend, but the one that feels authentic to the person who lives there.

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As we get deeper into October and the temperatures continue to fall, food becomes scarcer for our local wildlife. In the plentiful months of spring and summer, deer may have coexisted peacefully nearby relatively unnoticed, but from late fall they're more likely to come into our gardens to search out food. The same is true of rabbits, squirrels, mice and voles, which find winter a challenging time.

If you're concerned about trees, shrubs or other garden plants becoming a major colder-weather food source for wildlife, first finding out what's most at risk is one of the wisest winter garden ideas.

Then you can set about putting some protection in place. I've identified a few of the most vulnerable plants and called on the experts to help keep them safe and growing well for years to come. Armed with these carbon steel tin snips from Lowes, you'll be ready for most things.

Young Trees and Hedges

As permaculture designer Elizabeth Waddington at First Tunnels points out, it is when food is scarce for wildlife that 'the plants we have lovingly grown can become tempting sources of food and shelter'.

Elizabeth recommends a stroll around the garden in fall, noting any damage and identifying first of all young trees and newly planted hedges, which can be vulnerable to hungry deer, although she reminds us of the importance of wildlife in general:

'From a permaculture point of view, the aim is not to keep every creature out of the garden. It is to find a balance: protecting the plants we particularly value while making room for wildlife to be part of a healthy, productive landscape.'

'New trees and hedges haven't had time to establish themselves yet,' she continues. 'These plants are doing important work, providing future shelter, food and habitat, but they may need a little help during their first few years. Rabbits can gnaw bark around the base of young trees, while deer may browse the tender tips of branches or rub against trunks. Damage to a young tree can set it back considerably, so a little preventative protection can make a real difference.'

'A suitable tree guard or a cylinder of sturdy wire mesh can prevent rabbits from damaging the bark. Make sure the guard is tall enough for the animals in your garden, securely anchored and checked regularly so it does not rub against the trunk as the tree grows. Where deer are a problem, taller fencing may be needed, as they can browse well above the reach of rabbits.'

If you've mastered the art of planting trees, it's worth putting in a little work to protect them. We recommend simple mesh cylinders like these expandable ones from Amazon.

Roses and Evergreen Shrubs

While shrubs like arborvitae, yew, rhododendrons and azaleas are not the first choice of deer or rabbits, in winter as snow and ice cover deciduous plants and ground-level vegetation, these creatures can become desperate and turn to our prized shrubs for nutrients. And thorns are no obstacle for deer.

Jacob Bradbury of Derbyshire Walling & Landscaping works on gardens in the north of England, many of which are in rural locations susceptible to wildlife. 'Deer will eat roses and evergreen shrubs,' he says, 'So you need protection of 6ft (1.8m) height minimum, meaning you'll probably need to put tall tubes or mesh cages around each shrub individually.'

Fruit Trees

Fruit trees are particularly attractive to deer, who like to nibble the bark and tender bud tips, often more reachable with a little snow on the ground. Rabbits, mice and voles can cause similar, if not more damage, harming the tender bark at ground level. How to plant a fruit tree is a great skill to learn, as is protecting your trees over winter.

Jacob explains: 'Rabbits strip bark at ground level through winter, which kills trees. Deer will do the same thing but obviously higher up the tree. I'd put a spiral guard around new tree trunks to protect them against rabbits, or wire off a whole area with mesh fencing at least 4ft (1.2m) high and the bottom six inches in the ground.'

Elizabeth underlines the importance of coexisting with nature: 'We can support that balance by growing a diverse range of plants, including native hedges, fruiting shrubs, seed-bearing perennials and trees that provide food and shelter.

'We can leave some areas undisturbed, build healthy soil and avoid unnecessary interventions. At the same time, there is nothing wrong with protecting a young apple tree or a bed of winter vegetables. In fact, helping young plants establish successfully is part of creating a resilient landscape for the future.'

Soft Fruit Bushes

The stems, bark and dormant buds of soft fruit bushes become prime targets for rodents and other herbivores in winter, their nutrient-dense tissues providing irresistible survival food. As if that weren't enough, birds like bullfinches and pigeons will also strip fruit bushes of the tender overwintering buds.

The vulnerability of fruit bushes is also connected with the cultivation of the soil says Elizabeth: 'Soft fruit bushes, newly planted strawberries, currants and other soft fruit can suffer, especially in gardens where wildlife has easy access to cultivated beds. Fruit cages are ideal to protect soft fruits.'

In cultivated areas like kitchen gardens, it's also possible to fence in the entire bed with hardware cloth or chicken wire, or you can use sturdy polytunnels, like these Outsunny designs from Lowes to protect bushes most at risk.

Vegetables and Winter Greens

'Vegetable crops and winter greens are also worth watching,' explains Elizabeth. 'Kale, cabbage, broccoli and other brassicas can be particularly tempting to hungry rabbits and deer.'

Mice and voles will also be tempted by the tender green of these plants, and can quickly strip them of their leaves, chew on stalks and even tunnel underground, disturbing the root systems.

A few things can help at this time of year. You can remove tall weeds, heavy mulches and compost nearby to cut down on shelter in the vicinity. Or use row covers of fine netting, weighted down securely all the way around so there are no gaps. Longer term, raised beds can also be lined with fine wire mesh or hardware cloth/chicken wire before planting.

'For vegetable beds, a secure mesh enclosure can be a good solution,' advises Elizabeth. 'It's also worth thinking about how wildlife moves through the garden, and positioning particularly vulnerable areas, like vegetable gardens for example, off key routes. Consider investing in a polytunnel this month. It will not necessarily keep wildlife out, particularly if doors are left open or there are gaps around the edges.

'Rabbits and rodents may still find their way inside, so secure entrances and suitable mesh barriers are important where these animals are a problem. However, the covered growing area can offer a level of protection for some of the most vulnerable crops.'

Spring bulbs

If you've noticed your spring bulbs disappearing or being unearthed in previous winters, the culprits are likely to be hungry squirrels, who, quite naturally, see them as a nutrient-rich food source.

'Squirrels will eat anything newly planted, especially tulips and crocus,' says Jacob. Luckily there's a fairly easy solution, which involves protection over winter while they get their roots down.

'Chicken wire over newly planted bulbs will protect them from squirrels,' Jacob advises, 'but make sure you peg the wire down and cover the edges with a bit of soil.'

Elizabeth adds: 'Wire baskets or mesh covers can help protect freshly planted bulbs from digging.'

Seedlings and young perennials

'Then there are seedlings and young perennial plants. Both rabbits and deer can eat emerging shoots before we even have a chance to enjoy them,' says Elizabeth.

The problem could also be mice or voles chewing at the crowns of plants at ground level or at material below ground, causing young shoots and perennials to flop.

Again, a fenced-in area can help, while a degree of pragmatism might also be helpful.

'The best winter protection is thoughtful, preventative and proportionate,' says Elizabeth. 'By putting a few measures in place in October, making good use of polytunnels and allowing parts of the garden to remain wild, we can protect what matters to us while creating a garden that continues to nourish both people and wildlife throughout the year.'

What to Shop

When you're thinking about protecting your garden plants from animals like deer, rabbits and voles, start with simple, targeted solutions. As Elizabeth says, 'Rather than trying to exclude all wildlife from a garden, we can protect individual plants or particularly vulnerable areas.'

'A healthy garden is not one without wildlife; it is one where different forms of life can coexist, even if we occasionally need to protect particular plants.'

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As a forever home fragrance fan, I'll be the first to admit that scenting a space can be expensive. My favorite candles cost $90, and my beloved essential oil diffuser tips the scales at $165.

It's affordable products that recreate the same effects for less that truly catch my attention, particularly if they look just as good as the high-end version. And for seasonal scenting or gifting this Christmas, the InnoGear Ceramic Essential Oil Diffuser, available at Amazon, is currently under $26 − and looks just like its premium counterpart.

Included in my guide to the best essential oil diffusers, the Vitruvi Stone Diffuser is a tried-and-tested, chic favorite for scenting smaller spaces. But for a saving of over $100, the InnoGear option is ideal for shoppers on a budget who still want to prioritize shopping a stylish option to seamlessly blend with their interiors.

The Vitruvi Stone Diffuser, available at Amazon, has long been included in our rundown of favorite essential oil diffusers. It's beautiful, high-quality, and looks like a premium piece of pottery to complement your space − but it is expensive at $129.99 (though currently reduced to $103.99). The InnoGear Ceramic Essential Oil Diffuser, available at Amazon, instead, offers all the same stylish benefits, yet costs just shy of $26 on the current limited-time deal.

Just like the Vitruvi version, it features a handmade ceramic cover, which instantly sets it apart from plasticky affordable alternatives. The cover is also conveniently dirt-resistant and easy to clean.

The diffuser itself features two misting modes: Continuous, with a duration of four to six hours, for switching on when reading, working, or relaxing, and intermittent, with a duration of eight to ten hours, which is perfect for sleeping without the worry of having to refill the tank. If it does empty, though, a convenient auto-off function switches off the diffuser to prevent overheating and keep you safe.

Finally, the light setting offers a comforting glow, perfectly pitched to make a bed look cozy when used on a nightstand and to add warmth to any room, while the compact size, at just 6.81 by 3.93 inches, means you can squeeze the diffuser onto any surface or sill.

'I love this diffuser,' says Martha, alongside a five-star review. 'It’s a nice size, and the stone cover is beautiful. It has a nice output, and the intermittent setting lasts much longer than what I was expecting. The thing that I had looked for in the description, reviews, and videos that I never found was where the plug was located. But I was so impressed with the reviews and videos that I ordered it anyway. I was overjoyed when I unboxed it and found the plug is on the side. That is a feature that I really like, and that alone would be additional stars if I could rate it 5+.'

If you've got a friend or family member who regularly works from home or finds themselves struggling to sleep properly, this is the diffuser I'd gift this Christmas to help create a cozy home office and aid better sleep. As an affordable pick, it's also an appropriate option for buyers on a budget or, equally, for those looking to treat themselves ahead of the busy holiday season.

More to Shop

Below, shop the InnoGear Ceramic diffuser, along with my handpicked selection of five alternative home fragrance favorites − all of which make beautiful gifts (or treats to yourself) as the holiday season fast approaches.

All prices were correct at the time of publication.

For more home fragrance and gifting inspiration, browse my curated guides to the best candles and reed diffusers, all of which I've tested in my own home.

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There are more than 2,000 different species of begonia, with the most popular garden types being fibrous wax begonias and tuberous begonias with showy blooms that last from spring to fall. Come October, any begonias growing outdoors need a bit of attention to prepare for the coldest months ahead.

Whether you grow begonias that are tuberous or fibrous, there are a few action points this month. The former will need to be lifted and stored in frost-free location, while the latter can be relocated indoors. Of course, your hardiness zone does need to be taken into consideration, but generally speaking begonias are hardy across USDA zones 9-11.

That's why it's safer to winterize your begonias to ensure they can be enjoyed once again next year – and the best winterizing tools (like this pop-up frost plant tent from Walmart) will come in handy for this. Here, alongside insights from a gardening expert, we talk through what to do with begonias in October.

1. Lift Tubers for Storage

Tuberous begonias can be identified by gently lifting them and checking for firm tubers that look similar to potatoes. The foliage also tends to be softer than a wax begonia.

'Let them die back on their own. Once the leaves start to yellow, cut the watering down and stop feeding,' describes Mirela Bajic, Senior Garden Designer at House Designer. This will trigger dormancy.

'Then, cut the stems back to a few inches above the tuber, lift them, and let them dry off,' she continues.

You can use sharp pruning tools, like these Fiskars bypass pruning shears from Amazon to cut the stems down. Then, use a hori hori knife (like this from Amazon) or a garden fork to lift the tubers. Take care to dig a few inches away from the base of the begonia to avoid damaging the tubers.

You should give the tubers a gentle squeeze and remove any that are soft and mushy.

As Mirela notes, you then want to dry the tubers before storing. You can do this by laying the tubers in a single layer on a tray in a frost-free, well-ventilated environment for a couple of weeks.

After this, use wooden crates (like this pack from Amazon) or a cardboard box filled with shredded paper or sawdust to store the tubers until spring.

'Store them somewhere cool, dark, and frost-free. A shed or garage works fine, around 40-50°F is ideal. Check the tubers regularly and dispose of any that have gone soft,' Mirela advises.

2. Bring Wax Begonias Indoors

If you have a fibrous wax begonia (Begonia semperflorens), rather than a tuberous begonia, October calls for bringing it indoors.

You can identify this by gently lifting it from its pot and checking its root system – look for a mass of thin stringy roots. The foliage will also give this away, with wax begonias having round, waxy leaves.

Mirela says these plants should be grown as indoor plants for fall and winter.

'I’d bring wax begonias indoors as a houseplant, choosing in a bright, cool windowsill,' she says.

It's best to overwinter your tender begonias indoors because they cannot survive freezing temperatures. Come spring (after late frosts) you can reintroduce it to your garden.

If needed, you can use a plant caddy (like these wooden ones from Wayfair) to move potted begonias in heavy containers with ease.

3. Remove Damaged Foliage

When overwintering begonias indoors, it's worth giving them a bit of a spruce before settling in for fall and winter. Any damaged foliage should be removed, so it doesn't drain the plant's energy or make your begonia susceptible to pest and disease damage.

With tender wax begonias in particular, you should look for any mushy, rotting foliage and remove it. As evergreens, their foliage should remain firm and glossy year-round.

Avoid hard pruning your begonia now, as it's slowing down and won't be actively growing through winter. This could encourage weak new growth. Instead use sharp pruning snips (like these Fiskars micro-tip pruning snips from Lowe's) to make clean cuts and remove any damaged and diseased plant material.

You should also follow the one third pruning rule to prevent sending your begonia into shock.

4. Monitor for Pests

Just like checking for pests when bringing houseplants back indoors, take care to check for pests on your begonias.

Many indoor plant pests retreat into our homes in the colder months, seeking warmth and thriving in oversaturated indoor plant soil, dusty foliage, and more. For overwintering begonias, mealybugs and spider mites are among the most common.

By checking underneath your begonia's leaves and cleaning houseplant leaves regularly, you can discourage pest activity. This will also keep any houseplants safe by reducing the risk of pests spreading.

You can use fall houseplant care rules for your begonia to prevent pests. This includes providing good airflow and avoiding splashing the foliage which may encourage fungal issues as well as pests.

These houseplant dusting gloves from Amazon make it easy to clean houseplant foliage, and you can use diluted neem oil for plants (available from Walmart) to gently wipe the leaves as a precaution against pests – though you should do this sparingly as begonias have sensitive leaves.

5. Reduce Watering

Your overwintering begonias shouldn't be ignored through winter, but you should pull back on watering.

While they aren't actively growing, they don't need lots of water – too much could risk root rot and kill off your begonias before you get the chance to bring them back outdoors next spring.

'Overwatering does more harm than too little, they store water in their waxy stems and leaves,' Mirela says.

You can use a soil moisture meter (which you can find on Amazon) to identify when the top couple of inches dry out, but bear in mind this will be a lot less frequently than in summer.

What to Shop

There are lots of things to tick off on the fall gardening checklist alongside overwintering begonias, but if you're short on time there are a handful of gardening tasks you can delay until spring. This includes cutting back perennials and clearing up fallen leaves – in fact leaving both can support wildlife through winter.

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Winter poses many challenges for trees, as they face strong winds, snow, and frost. For peace of mind, once the leaves start to fall, it is an excellent time to assess the tree canopy for potential issues and deal with anything that poses immediate danger.

Broken branches, deadwood, and structural issues can cause limbs to drop, especially during strong winter storms. To prevent branches from dropping onto homes, vehicles, and people, checking any trees is a vital part of preparing your yard for a storm. Catching small issues early reduces the risk and is less costly than dealing with major repairs later, whether it is cleaning up afterwards or fixing the building.

This part of fall tree care is often overlooked and can be done either by professionals or by yourself. Here we look at why you need to inspect trees before winter, the danger signs to look for, and how to deal with issues identified. Certain issues can be removed with loppers or a pole saw (such as this 14ft pole saw for trimming trees on Amazon), but larger problems will need a professional.

Why You Must Inspect Trees Before Winter

Winter poses a wealth of potential challenges for backyard trees. Young trees need protection for winter, as they are not fully hardy, and you can protect any trees from winter weather by mulching the roots or installing a shield against snow damage.

However, experts always recommend you inspect trees before winter to identify and treat hidden issues that could cause damage, such as falling on buildings, driveways, or pathways. As these concealed problems are easier to identify when deciduous trees drop their foliage, fall is an ideal time to do a visual check of any trees on your property.

‘I would always advise homeowners to do basic inspections of their trees before incoming winter weather storms,’ says Levi Williams, a Tree Risk Assessment Qualified (TRAQ) ISA Certified Arborist from Tree Scouts Tree Service. ‘Inspecting before winter weather is especially important due to high winds and excessive freezing temperatures, which can cause destructive failures.’

Strong winds shake limbs, making potentially weak ones vulnerable to snapping, and heavy snow or ice weighs down branches, increasing the risk of breakages. You can gently remove snow from trees, but it is not as easy to remove ice quickly.

Inspecting trees before winter weather dangers arrive identifies potentially weak limbs that may pose a danger when the wind rattles them or when snow and ice add extra weight to them, and provides a window to prune tree branches to make them safe.

What to Look for

You can complete your own inspection or get a TRAQ-qualified arborist to visit your property and assess your trees.

It is advisable to inspect trees before winter by completing a 360-degree assessment from multiple angles, using different vantage points (including from a ladder or upper-storey windows in a home), and having a pair of binoculars to look into the canopy.

There are some key issues to look for, including deadwood, hanging branches, structural weakness, cracks, fungus, and weak joints between major stems or trunks.

‘Important checks before a storm are checking canopies that hang over important targets, such as streets, homes, vehicles, and walkways for pedestrians. Always look for large dead branches, diseased branches, and dying branches,’ recommends Levi Williams.

He also advises: ‘Look for fungal conks in the trunk, root collar, and branches of the tree. Fungal growth can lead to a weak branch, trunk, or root system where failure rates can be high.’

When it comes to a tree with multiple trunks, Basil Camu, co-founder of Leaf & Limb, warns of the risks of such unions: ‘Two trunks of similar size are not attached to each other the way a branch is attached to a trunk, so they are prone to splitting.’ It is worth noting how the trunks connect, as a V-shaped junction is more at risk than a U-shaped.

Basil adds: ‘At the trunk and the ground, look for cracks, a cavity wrapping more than a third of the way around, mushrooms at the base, or a new lean with roots lifting on the opposite side, which means the tree may be slowly falling.’

How to Deal With Problems

The biggest issue to consider after inspecting trees is the immediacy of any danger. You can prune trees in October and November for safety reasons to prevent winter damage. Some issues, however, may be left until late winter or early spring to mitigate future potential problems.

‘First ask what the tree or branch would hit if it fell, and if the answer is nothing, leave it alone,’ says Basil Camu.

‘If there is a target where people or property could be harmed, the answer is usually to build strength rather than remove the tree. Structural pruning does exactly that: it establishes one dominant trunk, shortens overextended limbs, and on very large trees, it can be paired with cabling for further stability.’

In a worst-case scenario, such as when there is a risk of toppling, a full removal of the tree may be necessary. If there are major issues, such as leaning or very high or large limbs that need to be addressed, it is best to contact a professional arborist to assess and rectify the problem.

Smaller-scale tree pruning of dead, damaged, or diseased branches can be done using loppers or a pruning saw. An extendable pole pruner (like this extendable pole at The Home Depot) may be required for higher branches, so you can safely work from the ground rather than needing a ladder.

The message is clear: be proactive with your trees rather than waiting for issues to arise. Catching issues early reduces the potential for storm damage and brings peace of mind.

‘No one can promise a tree won't fail in a major storm, but a tree with one dominant trunk and well-spaced branches is built to bend rather than break, and that structure can be built over years of thoughtful pruning,’ says Basil. ‘Structural pruning every year or two while a tree is young and every few years once it's mature, roots left alone, and living soil underneath can add decades to a tree's life.’

Shop Pruning Tools

Plants around a garden can be damaged by winter storms, too. However, there are simple ways to protect plants from a storm. These include moving containers indoors, removing any debris that may be blown around in strong winds, staking taller plants to prevent snapping, and proactively adding hedging plants to create a protective barrier.

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October’s vegetable garden is full of next year’s promise, let a few beans dry on the vine, and leave a pumpkin or zucchini to grow far beyond dinner size, and you can save their seeds for another season. Choose healthy, fully ripe crops, clean and dry their seeds thoroughly, then store them cool and dry.

Beans are the easiest place to start. Squash family seeds need more care as nearby varieties may have cross-pollinated, so next year’s fruit may not resemble this year’s.

For more on collecting and storing seeds, I recommend keeping a few seed envelopes from Amazon close at hand. Labeling each packet now saves a small mystery in spring.

Beans: Let The Pods Dry On The Plant

Beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) are the obliging members of this little seed-saving party. They do most of the work themselves, provided you resist the temptation to pick every last pod while it is still crisp and green. Leave a few of the healthiest plants to mature and let their pods turn brown and papery on the vine.

I choose plants that have grown well and show no signs of disease, then leave their pods until they rattle when shaken. If October rain arrives before they are dry, cut the whole plant or pick the pods and finish drying them indoors somewhere warm, airy, and out of direct sun. A paper bag beneath the stems catches any seeds that fall as the pods split.

Once the pods are brittle, shell them by hand and spread the beans on a tray for another week or two. They should feel hard, not cool or damp. Any seed that is soft, blemished, or damaged goes into the compost. Keep the best beans for sowing and label them with the variety and harvest year; a permanent marker from Amazon makes the job quick and legible.

Beans generally pollinate themselves, so they are a reliable choice for beginners. But different varieties of the same species can cross, particularly when bees are busy and varieties grow close together.

If you want to keep a variety’s characteristics, save seed from one variety, or leave plenty of distance between types. For more on planning a productive plot, see our guide to planning a kitchen garden.

Pumpkins And Winter Squash: Pick A Ripe, Healthy Fruit

Pumpkins and winter squash are ready for seed saving when they have reached full maturity. By now, the rind is hard, the fruit is fully colored for its variety, and the stem has begun to dry. A gentle fingernail test is useful. If the rind resists a scratch, it is likely mature; if it gives way easily, leave the fruit on the vine a little longer, weather permitting.

In cooler USDA hardiness zones, frost can bring that decision forward. Harvest mature fruit before a hard freeze, leaving a short length of stem attached, and cure it in a warm, dry place for a few weeks. Curing helps the fruit store well and gives seeds time to finish developing. In milder zones, October may bring a longer window on the vine, but don’t risk losing a good pumpkin to a forecasted freeze.

When you open the fruit, scoop out the seeds and separate them from the stringy pulp. A bowl of water and a fine-mesh strainer help; rub the seeds gently, rinse, and discard any that are visibly damaged.

Spread the rest in a single layer on a mesh tray or paper-lined plate, and stir them daily so air reaches every side. A herb and seed drying rack from Amazon is useful when you are dealing with more than one variety.

I try not to rush this stage. Large seeds may need a couple of weeks to dry completely, and a seed that feels dry on the outside can still hold moisture inside. Once dry, store them in a labeled paper envelope, then place that envelope in an airtight container in a cool, dark cupboard.

More detail on harvesting pumpkin seeds can help if you’re saving seeds from a Halloween carving.

Zucchini: Let One Become A Marrow

Zucchini, also called courgette (Cucurbita pepo), is usually picked young and tender. Saving seed means allowing one fruit to ignore its usual destiny. Leave a healthy zucchini on the plant until it becomes oversized, its skin hardens, and its color changes. It may look less like dinner and more like a small decorative canoe, but that is precisely the point.

If frost threatens, cut it from the vine and let it mature indoors for a few weeks. Then slice it open carefully (the hard rind can be surprisingly stubborn) and scoop out the seeds. Rinse away the pulp and spread the seeds in a single layer to dry, turning them regularly. A fine-mesh kitchen strainer bag from Amazon helps remove the slippery residue before drying.

Zucchini can cross-pollinate with other varieties of Cucurbita pepo, including some pumpkins and summer squash. The resulting seeds may grow into plants with unexpected fruit, flavor, or shape.

If you want a dependable repeat of a favorite variety, save from open-pollinated plants and keep only one compatible variety flowering nearby, or hand-pollinate and protect the flower. Our guide to harvesting zucchini seeds has more on the process.

One caution: don’t eat a squash that tastes unusually bitter. Discard it. Bitter flavor can signal high cucurbitacin levels, which may cause illness; don’t keep seed from a bitter fruit either.

Clean, Dry, Label, Store

The rule for every crop is simple: seed must be clean, completely dry, and labeled before it goes into storage. Dampness is the enemy. It invites mold and can ruin a packet before spring sowing, so give seeds more drying time than you think they need. Keep them out of direct sunlight, and don’t use an oven or dehydrator, gentle air circulation is safer.

Write the crop, variety, and year on each envelope. Include a note if the seed came from an open-pollinated plant or if nearby varieties might have crossed. Paper envelopes allow any last trace of moisture to escape; once the seeds are fully dry, store the packets in an airtight container in a cool, dark place. A small airtight storage container from Amazon keeps packets together and protected from humidity.

Before sowing next spring, check that your seed is still viable by placing a few seeds between damp paper towels and seeing how many germinate. And remember that saved seeds from hybrid varieties may not grow true to type, even when the parent fruit was excellent. If consistency matters, buy fresh seed; a vegetable seed collection from Burpee is a useful fallback for filling any gaps.

What to Shop

Seed saving is a modest act of optimism; a dry bean in an envelope, a pumpkin seed tucked away against the dark, and the prospect of another summer’s harvest already beginning.

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With the summer now firmly behind us and the nights drawing in fast, you might be thinking that you can put the garden to one side and forget about it until spring. This can certainly be the case, but if you want to get a head start on next year, October is a great month to begin, especially for sowing flowers.

With the soil still just warm, October is the ideal time for sowing certain hardy annuals, perennials and spring-flowering bulbs, as they still have time to germinate and get their roots down before winter arrives, resulting in stronger plants and earlier flowers next year.

Nevertheless, it is not just flowers you can plant in October, as depending on your location, now can be an ideal time to plant cool-weather crops, shrubs and trees. With lots of digging and transplanting potentially on the horizon, the correct tool, like this Berry & Bird Digging Spade (available from Amazon), will help make light work of the tasks ahead.

Flowers to Sow in October

Whether you have a cottage garden or a gravel garden, the fall is a great time to sow flower seeds. If sowing directly, the remaining warmth in the soil encourages germination and strong root systems to develop before growth slows over the winter. This means that when spring arrives, these plants produce blooms earlier than their spring-sown counterparts.

However, you will want to judge the timing. Sowing 4-6 weeks before your first frost of winter tends to be a good guide. Depending on your location, sowing too early may mean plants grow too quickly and flower before winter, and sowing too late can result in poor germination rates and tiny seedlings that may not make it through winter.

Having grown year-round in the community and private gardens I have managed over my nearly 20-year horticultural career, I share some of my favorite flowers that benefit from an October sowing.

Bishop’s Flower

For whimsical beauty, both in the borders and as a cut flower, the Bishop’s flower (Ammi majus) is one of my trusted go-tos. A hardy annual, you can start Ammi in the spring, but it also does well when sown now and tends to produce stronger, larger plants that flower earlier.

Producing soft domes of tiny white flowers on slender stems, this umbellifer looks delicate but the plants can tolerate light frosts and winters in USDA zones 6 and above. In warmer parts, sow directly, if possible, as it develops a tap root that doesn’t like being disturbed, and cover with frost cloth, available from Lowe’s, as required.

In colder parts, sow under cover in cell trays 4-6 weeks before the first frost and overwinter in a greenhouse or hoop house before planting out in spring.

You can purchase Ammi majus seeds from Burpee.

Ammi plants can cause skin irritation, and as with all horticultural activities, gardening gloves should be worn.

Honeywort

Another flower to sow in October is the hardy annual honeywort (Cerinthe major 'Purpurascens'). Grown for its arching branches of blue-green foliage and deep purple bracts, it grows to around 3-4 feet tall and is a magnet for pollinators.

Although generally sown in the spring, you can sow honeywort in October for strong, early-flowering plants next year.

Germinating best at a temperature between 64–68°F, in warmer areas you can sow it directly in October or 4-6 weeks before the first freeze. For colder zones, use a heated propagator, available from Amazon, to aid germination and grow on young plants in a greenhouse or cold frame, which you can purchase from Lowe’s.

White Lace Flower

Although you can sow Orlaya grandiflora, or the lace flower as it is also called, in early summer, October sowings are known for their strong stems and earlier blooms next year.

It produces white, lace-like umbels up to 2-3 feet tall and makes for an equally good border or cut flower. Perhaps lesser-known than other hardy annuals it is definitely one to try and when I grew it commercially, it was one of the most requested stems we produced.

In USDA zones 7-9, direct sow in a prepared seed bed where it should overwinter unscathed. In colder areas, sow undercover in deep cell trays (its taproot dislikes being disturbed), and grow under the protection of a hoop house or cold frame.

Orlaya grandiflora seeds are available to purchase from Botanical Interests.

Snapdragon

Another flower to sow in October is the snapdragon (Antirrhinum). As with some of the other flowers mentioned, you can sow snapdragons in the spring, but if sown now and overwintered as small plants, you will have taller stems and earlier buds compared to those sown in spring.

Germinating best at 65°F to 70°F, you will most likely need a heat mat or propagator to help these tiny seeds germinate. Sow 1-2 seeds to a cell (but do not cover) prefilled with a fine-textured seed starting mix, such as Miracle-Gro’s available from The Home Depot.

Prick out the seedlings when they are large enough to handle and pot up to overwinter in a greenhouse or cold frame. Harden off gradually before planting out in the spring.

Snapdragons are available in a wide array of vibrant and pastel colors to suit every planting scheme. However, for its ruffled, apricot-copper blooms why not try Antirrhinum majus 'Chantilly Bronze', available to purchase from Amazon.

Pincushion Flower

Developing pincushion-like flowers held aloft on slender stems, Scabiosa atropurpurea, are ideal for planting in a border or container. Another hardy annual, you can sow pincushion flowers in the spring, but also in the fall for earlier-blooming plants next year.

To grow in October, sow the seeds 1-2 per small pot or thinly in a seed tray, available from Amazon, and maintain a temperature of 65°F to 70°F, using a heat mat if required, to aid germination. Grow on under the cover of a greenhouse or cold frame, protected from any heavy frosts, and plant out after all risk of frost has passed in the spring.

With its deep-maroon flowers, ‘Black Knight’ pincushion flower seeds are available to purchase from Botanical Interests.

Pot Marigold

Prized for their cheerful, edible flowers, pot marigolds (Calendula officinalis) are also grown as companion plants to help deter pests.

Naturally blooming in shades of orange and yellow, new calendula varieties are also available in pastels or other bright colors.

One of the easiest flowers to grow, you can sow the seed this month directly outdoors in southern parts where hard frosts are not an issue. However, in colder regions, sow in a propagator set to 65 to 70°F and overwinter young plants under cloches, available from Amazon, or cold frames before planting out in spring.

Calendula ‘Pacific Beauty Mixture’ is available to purchase from True Leaf Market.

Dwarf Iris

Although technically a spring-flowering bulb, October is also prime time to plant dwarf irises (Iris reticulata). Growing from bulbs that are not much bigger than some seeds, dwarf irises might only grow to around 4-6 inches tall, but their exquisite and delicate flowers more than make up for their small stature.

Best planted when the soil falls to below 60°F, but before the first frost, two favorites I regularly return to are Iris reticulata ‘Harmony’, available from Burpee, for its vibrant blue petals or ‘Katharine Hodgkin’ for its subtler pale blue hues.

With their limited height, plant the bulbs 3-4 inches deep where you can appreciate them best, typically at the front of a border or in a shallow container.

What to Shop

Along with considering which flowers to sow in October, you might be wondering if now is a good time to plant some spring-flowering bulbs. With the soil still holding some warmth, October is an ideal month to get bulbs in the ground so they can develop a good root system before they enter winter dormancy.

From white carpets of snowdrops to vibrant snake’s head fritillaries, our specialist feature on bulbs to plant in October will help you decide what to plant for a spectacular spring flower display.

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After a long, hot summer, autumn brings a welcome return to structure. Diaries fill up, meetings resume, children return to school, and the household shifts into a different rhythm. I have always associated this time of year with a sense of renewal, and I find that the most effective way to prepare is to look at how the home is functioning.

Our homes accommodate an extraordinary number of activities, often simultaneously. They are places for work, study, entertaining, family life and rest. Yet we don't always give the practical requirements of these different activities the same consideration as the more visible aspects of interior design. Autumn is a useful opportunity to reassess this.

I begin with the family diary. At home, we use a large magnetic blackboard to map out everyone's commitments for the coming fortnight. There is a great deal to be said for having the household schedule visible and accessible to everyone, rather than relying entirely on individual digital calendars. It establishes a shared understanding of what is happening and, importantly, who needs to be where.

I also believe in refreshing the basics. New socks, underwear and T-shirts, fresh stationery and a new set of notebooks. These are relatively modest purchases, but there is something quite deliberate about starting the new term with the essentials in order. A fresh notebook is particularly satisfying. It signals the beginning of a new chapter and creates an opportunity to reconsider what deserves our attention.

The next consideration is how things move through the house. Every household has an accumulation of objects that need to be accommodated: school bags, post, paperwork, keys, devices and chargers. Without designated places for these, even the most carefully designed interior can quickly become overwhelmed.

We have a dedicated charging station for phones, tablets, watches and school laptops, where everything is returned overnight. It is a straightforward system, but one that removes unnecessary friction from the morning routine. Everyone knows where their devices belong and where to find them the following day.

The same principle applies to school paperwork. We have a second magnetic board that acts as a landing point for everything that comes home, positioned discreetly so it isn't visible from the main part of the room. Not every functional element of a home needs to be on display. Knowing what to conceal, and how to make it easily accessible when required, is an important part of good design.

I think we should also be giving children's homework spaces the same attention that we give our own home offices. A child needs an appropriate place to concentrate, with a comfortable chair, good lighting and sufficient space for books and materials. This doesn't necessarily require a dedicated room. A desk incorporated into joinery, a carefully planned corner or a table that accommodates different activities throughout the day can be equally effective.

The same considerations apply to working from home. Despite how established it has become, many people are still making do with arrangements that were never intended to be permanent. A laptop on the dining table and an unsuitable chair might suffice for an afternoon, but they are not a sensible long-term solution. Beyond the physical discomfort, there is the practical issue of work encroaching on spaces intended for other aspects of domestic life.

Whether you have a dedicated study or a workspace incorporated into another room, the starting point should be to understand precisely how it will be used. What equipment is required? How much storage is needed? Will the space accommodate meetings? Does it need to serve another purpose outside working hours? These questions should inform the design from the outset, rather than being addressed once the furniture has been selected.

When I’m designing for clients at Elicyon, we pay particular attention to the technical details that allow a workspace to function without compromising the interior. We have integrated plug sockets within desk legs to eliminate visible cables, incorporated charging points into bespoke joinery, and designed tables that can accommodate both individual work and meetings. Acoustics are another important consideration in open-plan homes. Sound-absorbing paint, rugs, upholstery and carefully selected fabrics can help manage noise and create a more comfortable environment for concentration.

These interventions may not be immediately apparent, but their effect on the experience of a room is considerable. The objective is to resolve the practical requirements so thoroughly that they become almost invisible. Once those fundamentals are established, I approach the room with the same attention to atmosphere and character as any other part of the home.

Lighting deserves careful consideration. A desk requires effective task lighting, supported by softer, decorative sources that allow the atmosphere to change throughout the day. Materiality also plays a significant role. Timber, stone, textiles, and tactile finishes introduce warmth and ensure that the room feels connected to the wider interior.

Art, books and collected objects are equally important. A study should reflect the interests and personality of the person using it. In fact, given the amount of time we spend working, I would argue that it deserves as much consideration as any other room in the house.

The study I designed at my rental property, Alton House, reflects this approach. I wanted it to have a distinct identity and personality, rather than simply fulfilling the conventional expectations of an office. It is a room in its own right, with all the functionality required of a workspace.

Storage is essential to achieving this balance. Bespoke joinery allows us to accommodate printers, screens, filing and charging equipment without allowing them to dominate the room. It also enables a workspace to transition between different uses when a study forms part of a bedroom or living space.

I am also conscious of what happens at the end of the working day. When work takes place at home, the physical separation between professional and personal life becomes less distinct. The interior can help establish that boundary.

In a dedicated study, closing the door provides a clear transition. In a shared room, it might mean putting paperwork away, concealing a screen within joinery and changing the lighting. The workspace should be able to recede when it is no longer in use, allowing the room to fulfil its other functions.

For my own autumn reset, I finish by clearing my desk completely. I go through everything that has accumulated, edit what is no longer necessary, and reconsider what I actually need within reach. A new desk mat, a notebook and a few well-designed practical accessories are often sufficient to make the space feel refreshed. At the Elicyon Studio, we use these personalised leather desk mats from Etsy.

I don't believe that the return to routine requires a complete reinvention of the home. It is about identifying the points of friction in everyday life and addressing them with considered, practical solutions. A well-organised household diary, a designated place for devices, a proper homework space and a desk that is genuinely comfortable to work at can have a far greater impact on daily life than a dramatic decorative change.

Good luck with the return to routine. I hope the autumn season brings a productive start to the new term, and that everyone knows where their laptop charger is in the morning.

Interior designer Charu Gandhi is one of Homes & Gardens' Editors-At-Large for By Design, sharing her thoughts on decor.

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